At the first stage of construction, the question of how to build a house from reeds will fade into the background. First of all, you need to prepare building material. It’s good if in the area where you are planning to build a house there is a lake, pond or artificial reservoir. In this case, you are provided with environmentally friendly building materials. Building a house from reeds does not mean that this will be the only building material, so you should have the usual tools at hand.

Harvesting reeds for construction needs to be done in winter, on dense ice. Choose large and hollow yellowish stems, they are more suitable for building a reed house. After harvesting, the plant stems are cleared of leaves and divided into pieces of different lengths.

Next, the processed stems are pressed and mats are knitted from them (some call them slabs). It is recommended to make blanks with the following dimensions: thickness 12, width 90 and length 250 cm. Craftsmen use a machine for knitting mats. The machine consists of two bars, between which stalks of reeds are placed. The stems are compressed with bars, sewn for strength with wire or rigid twine.

The answer is in the article!

Let's say you decide to start building a house. Where do you start? Of course, from the foundation, experienced “builders” will say. From the search for material, others will say. All this is, of course, correct. But not really. You need to start with other things. From which ones? We'll talk about this later.

House made of reeds

Yesterday I went to visit a friend. And I learned a lot of interesting things. He has been doing quite an interesting business for a couple of years now. Prepares slabs (panels) for building a house.

But does that really happen? – some will doubt. Yes, he does not work at a sandwich panel factory. His company makes slabs (walls) from reeds. By the way, they make beautiful houses. Environmentally friendly material, cheap, lightweight, easy to install. Just a miracle, not material.

Fi, - some will say - a simple reed, and you can build a house from it? What a great one! I will dwell on some characteristics of reeds.

The fact that it is environmentally friendly is understandable.

The reed is lightweight and therefore easy to install.

It turns out that reeds do not breed mice. But there is one trick here. Reeds have panicles (seeds) at the end, which need to be cut off when making shields. Since there are seeds that mice, ants and other living creatures like to eat. If you don't cut them off, mice may appear.

Cheapness. Indeed, as I found out, a box of a house (wall) 10x12 meters costs (including installation) 50 thousand rubles. If you do it really well, it costs 60 thousand rubles.

Installation of such walls takes at most half a day.

This way you can even build a two-story house or a house with an attic.

Reed is a fairly dense material; it is specially knocked down before assembling the shields. Therefore, a house made of such panels will never shrink.

Making shields

Now a few words about making shields.

An ordinary commercial forest is taken. Although, to save money, many make shields from black forest. Required material: timber with a section of 7 x 12 cm of various lengths.

A regular frame is made from it, the height of which is 2.5-3 m (depending on the height of the house). Length 2-3 meters. If the length is longer, a support post is nailed in the middle. One side of the frame is covered with shingles. A regular picket fence of various lengths will do. It is nailed to the frame diagonally. The distance between the slats is 15 cm.

The foundation is being poured. By the way, when building a house from reeds, you also save on the foundation, since the walls are light and the load is small. Therefore, the foundation can be poured in the simplest way. You can read how to save on a foundation or.

Roofing felt is laid on the foundation, boards are laid on it, thickness 30-40 mm. Shields are placed on the boards and nailed to them. For installation, 3-4 people are enough; there is no need to rent a crane or other equipment. The same boards are laid on top of the shield walls and nailed down. Then the entire finished structure is fixed with beams. All wall installation is completed. Building a house from reeds is easy and economically beneficial.

After construction, the walls are coated with a solution of clay, water and straw. After drying, this mixture holds up no worse than cement. By the way, boards and reeds can be impregnated with a special solution for fire safety.

Only then, the walls can be lined with any material. Be it facing bricks, siding or corrugated sheets. It depends on how much your budget allows. I was recommended to cover the walls with siding. They said that brick attracts moisture. Some, to save money, simply sheathe reed slabs with foam and putty. Such a house is also warm if there is gas heating. But this is a completely budget option.

This way you can build a house even for 200 thousand rubles. The arithmetic here is simple. Divide the amount available into three parts. One for the foundation, another for the walls, the third for the roof.

A few more tips on what you need to do before starting to build a house.

Before construction begins, you have a bare plot of land. So, before erecting the walls of the house, it is advisable to build at least a bathhouse and a shed for storing tools and building materials on the site. I have seen quite a few “builders” who immediately begin to build a house, and then spend the night in the car, guarding their materials and tools.

There are options here. You can build a barn. Or you can buy a ready-made container, which costs about 50 thousand rubles. Its dimensions, if memory serves, are 4 x 12 m. All your tools and materials will fit there.

There is another option. You can rent a cabin for the duration of construction work. Once completed, the tenancy ends. Convenient and economical. As a rule, you can live in such cabins, relax while working, and store tools.

A bath or shower is also necessary to rinse off after work. Besides, you will still need to build a bathhouse, right?

Now you know where to start building a house. It is advisable to carry out such work before the start of construction work. This is the so-called labor organization. If you follow these tips, your building will be much easier. Happy construction!

Reed has been used as a roofing covering from time immemorial. Moreover, in many countries it was almost the only option for creating roofs until the time when man invented and began to use ceramic tiles, roofing iron, roofing felt, slate, and then more innovative materials for this purpose. In connection with their appearance, reeds almost everywhere not only faded into the background, but generally ceased to be harvested as a building material. And today many do not even suspect that it is an excellent coating for a private home and has numerous advantages over modern roofing materials.

But recently, interest in this type of roofing has revived, and this coating has again begun to gain popularity. But we must say right away that a do-it-yourself reed roof is not as simple a task as it might initially seem. Before embarking on such a project, it is necessary to carefully study the proven technology for its construction, since it differs very significantly from work with any other roofing materials.

A few words about the advantages and disadvantages of reed roofs

The main reason for the refusal of reed roofing was, most likely, the labor intensity of procurement of raw materials, its preparation and installation on the rafter system. It is clear that it is much easier to throw it onto roof slopes or slate. But many do not think that in the summer they will have to suffer from the heat, and in the winter they will have to overpay for heating. So, trying to save on roofing material, you can “provide” yourself with discomfort for many years of living in the house.

The solution is artificially made ones, which are mounted under the roof or on the attic floor. They really protect rooms from overheating and keep them warm in winter. However, during the entire period of its operation, such thermal insulation will emit fumes harmful to the health of the inhabitants of the house.

And in recent years, when information that most modern construction products negatively affect the human body has become publicly available, many private homeowners are deliberately returning to environmentally friendly materials, which include reeds.

We have to agree that the first steps to return reed coverings to everyday life were taken by the owners of country restaurants and hotels in order to attract customers. They began to erect buildings in certain styles, into which roofs and walls made of reeds fit perfectly.

Inspired by this example, many home owners who want to make their homes not only environmentally friendly, but also give it an exclusive appearance, began to use this unique material for roofing. Therefore, and also due to the numerous positive characteristics of reeds, the demand for this roofing material began to grow steadily.

Reed has a wide range unique qualities , which include the following:

The most important advantage of reed covering is its thermal insulation abilities. So, even at very low winter temperatures, it prevents heat from escaping through the roof. In summer, a thick layer of reeds protects the premises from overheating, keeping the house cool. Thanks to this, there is no need to resort to additional thermal insulation work.
Reed grows in a humid environment, and therefore completely immune to exposure to water. He will not rot, rot, etc. what is very important is that mold, mildew or moss are extremely reluctant to settle in it.
The material is highly resistant to negative external influences - ultraviolet rays, temperature changes, precipitation,
Laying a reed roof is accompanied by the creation of natural ventilation for the attic and under-roof space. This property of the coating allows in many cases to avoid additional steam and waterproofing of the structure.

Layers of reeds, due to their hollow tubular structure, are an excellent soundproofing material. Such a roof absorbs noise and will never resonate. By the way, this quality, along with thermal insulation properties, encourages home owners to use reed mats for wall cladding.
Reed covering, unlike metal, does not store static electricity, so the risk of lightning discharges entering it is eliminated.
Long service life. Such coatings do not require major repairs for 55–60 years; they do not need to be cleaned or painted. If there is a need for minor repairs, the operation may involve installing patches, that is, bundles of new material are fixed to mechanically damaged areas. The newly installed sheaf may initially differ slightly from the entire covering in shade, but over the course of a year, under the influence of external factors, the color will become equal.

It should be noted that over time, the color of reed rays not only does not fade, but, on the contrary, becomes deeper and more noble. This helps such a roof fit perfectly into the harmony of the surrounding natural environment.

There are ample opportunities to create complex architectural roof structures, thanks to the flexibility of the plant stems.

TO negative moments reed coverings include:

Flammability of the material. It is for this reason that many doubt, and therefore do not dare to opt for reeds to cover the roof. However, it should be noted that many building materials have one degree or another of flammability, and first of all, they include wood, from which most are built. In addition, if the reed covering is made in compliance with all fire safety requirements, then a fire from sparks falling on the roof becomes extremely unlikely.

Fire-fighting measures include treating the flooring with fire-retardant impregnations. True, we have to agree that this product is washed out over time, and the impregnation needs to be renewed periodically. But, by the way, in many European countries reed roofs are not coated with fire retardants at all - in order to maintain 100 percent environmental cleanliness of the coating.

The natural “enemy” of reed roofs can be birds, which either try to organize nests in such a comfortable and warm covering, or steal material for building nesting sites in other places. This, however, can be successfully combated by laying the material very tightly and not allowing individual reeds to protrude beyond the overall coating layer.

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metal siding

High cost and labor-intensive installation work. Previously, when reed was used everywhere to cover the roofs of houses, it probably cost a penny, and each homeowner could arrange the roof on his own, since this skill was passed on from father to son. Today, both the material itself and the work involved in laying it are very expensive. Depending on the quality and variety of raw materials, the average price of the material varies from four hundred to one and a half thousand rubles per square meter. And with complex installation, prices generally become “astronomical”.

How to choose and prepare reeds yourself?

Probably, before moving on to considering the structure of reed roofs, you should take a closer look at the material. In particular, to understand what it is, when and how it is harvested, and what techniques are used to tie together cut plants.

So, reed is an annual plant and grows in coastal water zones in almost all regions of Russia. Its stems can have a round, square or triangular cross-section; they reach a height of 2.5 ÷ 3 meters. In our latitudes alone there are more than fifty types of reeds, and most of them can be used to cover and insulate roofs or decorate walls.

In construction, cut plant stems are used, the thickness of which is 5÷8 mm, and the height is from 1500 to 2500 mm. The stems have high strength and flexibility, so it is convenient to work with them, collecting them in sheaves and laying them on the roof.

It is recommended to harvest reeds for construction work in winter, when water bodies are covered with ice. To cut plants, a hand or brush cutter, sickle or tarpan is used, sometimes even an ordinary, sharpened shovel, which is convenient for work if reeds are cut from the surface of the ice.

Harvesting reeds seems simple at first glance, but in fact it is very difficult work, since you should not forget that a lot of raw materials will be required to cover the roof. Therefore, if you decide to do this work yourself, you need to prepare yourself for a long and labor-intensive process.

The cut reeds are stacked into bales (sheaves), usually with a standard circumference of 600 mm. These sheaves are tied at the bottom in two places at a height of approximately 100 and 500 mm from the cutting point. Tying is done with twine, flexible wire, or the reed stems themselves.

The upper side of the sheaf, where the plant inflorescences (panicle) are located, is cut off immediately after collecting the reeds or after drying them. To make work easier, wooden folding trestles are used. Pruning of inflorescences at the collection site is carried out if there is no desire to drag excess garbage onto the territory of your site.

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flexible tiles

It is worth noting that in some cases the panicles are not cut off at all, since there are technologies for laying reed covering along with them.

The baled reeds are collected in a stack or installed along the walls of buildings and left to dry. The optimal humidity of plant stems for work is approximately 18%.

Some craftsmen prefer to postpone knitting reeds into bales until spring. So, in winter, it is cut and neatly folded into inflorescences in one direction, and its cleaning, trimming and distribution into sheaves is carried out with the arrival of warm days.

Previously, sheaves were knitted using the reed stalks themselves, from which a rope was twisted. It was called differently in different regions of the country - knitting, svyasl or sling. To make the stems more flexible, they were soaked in water for some time.

1a, 1b, 1c And 1g– sequence of twisting the tourniquet (tied);

2a, 2b And 2v– binding an ordinary sheaf;

3a, 3b And 3v- the procedure for making a double sheaf.

The techniques for making ties and knitting sheaves are shown in the illustration above, but there is, apparently, a need for some clarification

You need to take a handful of reeds, that is, as much as will fit in the palm of your hand.
Then the handful should be divided in half and these two bunches should be folded together so that the panicles of the reeds are facing one another.
Next, start twisting the tourniquet.
The prepared sheaf of reeds is wrapped around the finished bundle. Then the ends of the bundle are twisted together clockwise, then bent in half and slipped under the tourniquet that encircles the sheaf. This knot is convenient because the sheaves laid on the roof will not come undone, and if they need to be used in bulk, they can be quickly unraveled by pulling the twisted end of the bundle.
In order for the edges of the roof to be full and beautiful, so-called double sheaves are often knitted for them. To make it, first a single sheaf is knitted, but it is not tied very tightly with a cord. Then the finished bale is laid on the ground and pressed with a knee - it becomes flat from such a load. Next, the reeds are divided into two approximately equal parts, after which one of them is rotated 180 degrees, so that the panicles are in different directions. Then another 180-degree turn is made, at which the panicles are again close. This creates two sheaves connected to each other by one strand.

It should be noted that today it is rare for anyone to use reed ties for knitting sheaves, since this requires a certain skill. Other materials that are easier to use and reduce the time of procurement work are quite suitable for this purpose - these are wire or strong twine that do not need to be twisted.

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Creation of a reed roof begins only after the required number of sheaves have been prepared for the covering. Here we can proceed from the established and practice-proven norm that for every square meter of roof area, at least eight standard sheaves are consumed (with a circumference of approximately 600 mm, a length of 1500 to 2000 mm - they are often called “Eurosheaves”). It would probably be useful to set aside a certain reserve, about 20%, for culling, pruning and flaws in the work. In total, it is best to proceed from the ratio: 1 m² of roofing → 10 standard sheaves.

Before throwing sheaves onto the roof, they must be cleaned and leveled from the bottom.

Methods used for laying reeds on the rafter system

There are several common methods of laying prepared reeds on the rafter system. In the specialized literature, four types are usually described; however, there are still some nuances in the technology of working with this material.

Varieties according to styling techniques

So, there are four main installation methods - “under the brush”, “in parks”, “in the dust” and panels (mats).

“Under the brush” - this method can be called the most popular, since it is still most often used to cover the roof. It differs in that reed sheaves are laid on the roof slopes in rows with the roots down, and then cut, “combed” and compacted with a special tool - comb(brush) and spatula.

If the installation and leveling technology is followed, a roof covered with reeds “under a brush” looks monolithic and resembles a velvet covering.

Well-compressed sheaves have virtually no air gaps between plant stems - this makes the coating more resistant to fire. However, after laying and “combing” the reeds, it is still recommended to additionally impregnate it with one of the compounds that increase the fire resistance and biostability of the material.

"Parks". Using this installation method, only the first row of reeds along the eaves should be laid root down, and the remaining bales should be installed root up.

“In a natrusku” - this option is simpler than the previous two, but a coating made in a similar way does not look entirely aesthetically pleasing, so it cannot be called popular. Its technology is quite simple: reeds are thrown randomly onto the roof slopes, and in order to prevent the roofing material from being blown away by the wind, it is fixed on top with poles, beams, slats, etc. However, perhaps there is some special “charm” in this, and the owner of the house will choose just such a slightly “disheveled” design for his home.

Panels or mats are made from pre-dried and trimmed sheaves. In this case, the bales may have different diameters, depending on how thick the panel is planned to be made. To do this, the bales are stitched together with wire.

Mats of different thicknesses are used for different buildings. For example, to create full-fledged roofs of residential buildings, reed panels with a thickness of 300÷350 mm are made, and for gazebo roofs, 150÷200 mm is sufficient.

Making mats from sheaves yourself is quite simple. To do this, you will need a frame made of boards, a crossbar pipe (horizontal bar), or even a reliable tree branch growing almost horizontally. In addition, a strong rope or wire is needed, which should have a length equal to two times the height from the ground to the crossbar. Each piece of rope is folded in half, and a strong knot is tied in this place. One end of the rope is tied to the top bar, and the other remains on the ground. To make it more convenient to work, small sharpened pieces of slats or special devices - shuttles - are attached to the free ends.

You will need 4–5 such ropes, depending on the size of the future mat. The outermost ones should be located 80÷100 mm from the boundaries of the future mat, the rest are distributed at equal intervals.

Then, the prepared sheaf is taken and placed on the lower nodes. To secure the first bale, you will need an assistant to support the second end while the first is secured. Next, a vertical rope tied to the crossbar is wrapped around the free end with a shuttle, as shown in the figure above. All subsequent bales are secured in the same way.

Reeds tied into such panels are much easier to lay. The only thing that will complicate the work is lifting the material to a height, given that the mass of such mats is quite large, especially if they are very thick.

Varieties according to “schools” of styling

The above installation techniques are not the final division. There are also, so to speak, “schools” of laying reeds on the roof. The most often mentioned are the “Old Russian”, “Polish”, “Dutch” and “Danish” methods. They are all, of course, somewhat similar to each other, but have some nuances and differences.

It is necessary to highlight separately so-called "Old Russian" method of laying reed sheaves. In it, slugs - horizontally laid thin logs or thick branches - are attached to the rafter legs of the structure. Reeds arranged into sheaves are placed on them and pressed with poles (pressures). Pritugas were previously tied to slugs with willow twigs, but today strong, flexible wire is usually used instead. The reeds in bales were laid in steps and then tamped with combs.
“Polish” technology involves arranging a coating with a looser structure, that is, reeds laid on slopes are not heavily compacted. Moreover, in this “school” of roof making, the ridge is made from the same reeds.
The Dutch method has certain standards for the length of bales, which should be from 1100 to 1800 mm, and the thickness of the stems no more than 2 ÷ 6 mm. The reeds are laid tightly and then combed.
The Danish version also has standards for the length and thickness of the material. The length of their stems is no more than 1000 mm, and their diameter is 4÷5 mm.

It should be noted that the roof looks most neat and elegant when thin reeds are used to cover the slopes. In addition, it is laid more tightly on the roof, which ensures high protection of the house from heat leakage, moisture seepage and noise penetration.

From givendescriptions of different methods of installing reeds on the roof, we can come to the conclusion that the fundamental difference largely lies only in the length of the sheaves and the thickness of the stems of the material. In accordance with this, the pitch of the rafter system sheathing also varies.

Another difference in the design of roofs constructed using different technologies is the design of the ridge using different materials and methods.

Differences between reed roofs based on the base (sheathing of the rafter system)

Reed roofs are also divided according to their basis. So, they are open and closed.

In an open reed roof structure, the sheaves are laid directly on the bars or poles of the sheathing of the roof rafter system. The installation process is quite complicated, and therefore requires a certain skill, which is available to professional roofers who work with this material constantly.

The rafters in this design are fixed in the same way as for sheet roofing material, at a distance from one another, usually 600 mm. The sheathing slats are installed horizontally, in increments of 280 mm, except for two fixed above the eaves and one running along the ridge beam. They are placed at a distance of 150 mm from the edges of the slope from below and above, respectively.

A galvanized fastening wire 5 mm thick is fixed to the two lower elements of the lathing, and 1 mm thick to all other horizontal slats. With its help, the sheaves will be attracted to the crate. As you can see from the presented diagram, this design does not use steam and waterproofing, since they are not particularly necessary.

To make working more comfortable, after laying the first row of sheaves, they are temporarily fixed in place clothespin clips or metal hooks.

These fasteners are removed as the row is secured to the base with wire. Then they are moved to the next layer of reeds being laid, and they remain in place until it is finally fixed. Thus, on average, 25–30 pieces of such hooks or clamps will be required for work.

On one or all pins with hooks, make a mark equal to the required thickness of the flooring - usually it is 300÷350 mm. The mark allows you to control the uniform thickness of the reeds.

Instead of metal hooks, T-shaped wooden clamps are used to secure the bales, which penetrate the roofing layer and hold it in one position. This fastening is mainly used in the Dutch technology of reed roofing.

The closed version of the reed roof requires more different materials for arrangement, but laying reed sheaves will be much easier, since they are mounted on a solid base. As a continuous sheathing, plywood 10÷12 mm thick is laid on the rafters and horizontal crossbars. Then the plywood is covered with a vapor barrier material, on top of which the fastening and tension wires are fixed horizontally at the same distance from each other as in an open structure. The wire is screwed to the base with self-tapping screws.

Work on arranging a closed version of the roof, despite the large number of layers, proceeds much faster, which is why this design is more popular than the open one.

Some craftsmen can also use old slate or other covering as a base, onto which they attach a wooden sheathing. Thus, the old roof serves as reliable waterproofing, and the reeds are an excellent heat and sound insulator for the roof of the house, while at the same time giving the appearance of the building the necessary decorative effect.

Some important features of a reed roof

When arranging a roof covered with reeds, it is necessary to take into account some nuances that will directly affect the duration of its operation. Therefore, they can be called, rather, even mandatory requirements.

The design of a reed roof can be different, but its slopes must be located at an angle of no less than 30÷35 degrees. At the same time, you need to know that the lower the slope of the slopes, the greater the risk of stagnant zones appearing on their surface, which significantly reduces the durability of the coating.

Considering the large weight of the coating, which with a thickness of 300 mm can reach up to 35÷40 kg/m², it is necessary to provide a reliable base for it. The designs of the battens were presented in the diagrams above.
After laying the reed on the rafter system, wherever it protrudes beyond the lower structural elements, you must try to compress it by 45÷60 mm. The stems are compressed towards the outer surface, that is, from below, and in such a way that there are practically no gaps left between them.

The reeds can protrude beyond the clamping bar or the edge of the hooks by approximately 150÷200 mm, and must be pressed tightly against the base. Moreover, the lower layers of the stems should protrude only 100÷150 mm, and the upper ones by the above length.
To ensure clamping, galvanized steel wire with a thickness of 5 or 4.6 mm is used. The first clamping wire is placed at a distance of 200 mm from the bottom edge of the hooks, and the second - at a distance of 120 mm from the first.

Each next row of reed bales is laid with an indentation from the edge of the lower, previous one, by 280÷300 mm.
At the edges of the lathing, sheaves of reeds must be additionally stitched with stainless wire 1 mm thick, which must be placed every 200 mm.
If the distance from the ridge of the roof slopes to the eaves (eaves) is no more than 7000 mm, and its slope angle is 40 degrees or more, and reeds 1500 mm long are used for the covering, then the thickness of the covering along the ridge should be no less than 220 mm, and eaves line at least 250 mm.

If the slope has a length (from the ridge to the eaves) of more than 7000 mm, and the slope of the slope is less than 40 degrees, then the thickness of the coating should be at least 250 mm along the ridge line, and 300 mm along the eaves.

The ridge in a reed roof can be made of different materials. It is knitted from the stems of the same reeds, tiles or ready-made ridge elements for metal tiles, etc. are laid along the eaves line. However, experienced roofers advise, before fixing the roofing material, to strengthen the ridge with a reinforcing mesh, which is lowered onto the slope by 200÷250 mm.

Another option for forming a ridge is to lay bales of building reeds along it and fasten them to the sheathing, and then cover them with a “cap” tied from the stems.

It is impossible not to say how to properly stitch the reeds, since several methods are currently used for this operation.

Previously, end-to-end stitching of reed covering with wire was used, but this is time-consuming and not justified by quality work, so this method is practically not used today.

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ceramic tiles

Most often, fastening the reeds to the slopes is carried out with self-tapping screws to which the wire is attached. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the sheathing elements. Typically, for this type of fixation, self-tapping screws with a length of 35 mm and wires with a diameter of 0.8÷1.0 mm are sufficient.

You can also fix the material with nails, but in this case, the sheathing bars will have to be made more powerful, otherwise the nails may split them. A wire is attached to nails, as well as to self-tapping screws, which will press the coating to the base.

Stitching reeds with the help of pressing and pressing according to the old Russian method. A thick branch (slightly) or a medium-thick beam is used as a pressure, and willow and birch twigs of sufficiently long length, which were made more plastic by soaking, were previously called vitsa.

Today, wire, hemp rope or other durable material can be used as a support. The rivets are passed under the rafter leg, their two ends are pulled out, which are tightened or twisted from above. After which the ends of the ties are hidden under the reed covering in the under-roof space and tied again. The top stitching is covered with the next layer of reeds.

To compact the mats, level them and “comb” them, a comb-brush and bit blades are used. The coating should be quite dense, since this quality determines how protected the coating will be from fire, what thermal and waterproofing abilities it will have, and how long the roof will last as a whole.

Do-it-yourself reed roof installation

Tools for work

To perform roofing operations, you will need some special tools and devices to ensure comfortable and safe work on the roof. The “classic” set of roofers – “reeders” – is shown in the illustration:

1 – Comb or brush. It can have a short handle, as shown in the picture, or a long one.

2 – Knife with a serrated blade.

3 – Serpso with special sharpening (a – needles, b – blades).

4 – Durable work gloves.

5 – Shoulders.

These tools are used traditionally. In addition to them, they use a hammer to screw in self-tapping screws, as well as devices for lifting sheaves onto the roof and to ensure comfortable and safe work. These are short stairs or steps on sharp knives. With the help of such legs, the stairs are fixed to the already laid reeds.

Carrying out installation work

Now that we know the nuances of performing the work of creating reed roofing, we can move on to considering the installation process itself.

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The rafter system for laying reeds must already be fully prepared so as not to be distracted by the installation of its elements in the process of creating the roofing. If the reeds are installed on a rafter system, then wind boards should already be attached to its gables, and their width protruding above the rafter legs should correspond to the planned thickness of the reed covering. When laying the material, the wind boards will become reliable sides for the reeds, since it must be pressed tightly against them. In addition, the ends of the tension wire are also attached to the wind boards.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	When carrying out installation using the “old Russian” technology, the first row of reed sheaves is placed on the bottom layer of the sheathing, forming an eave - the overhang of the roof. Individual sheaves are additionally secured to hooks that limit the movement of the beam or timber. The first row of single or double sheaves is laid out, the edges of which are cut perfectly evenly, since the eaves should be dense, beautiful and have the same thickness throughout the entire overhang. If the first row is laid carelessly, it can ruin the entire appearance of the roof. Therefore, when collecting reeds into sheaves, you should not save money - you need to make their size the same as recommended by experienced roofers, that is, 600 mm in circumference. The bales are stacked close to each other, as there should be no free space between them. Their upper part, on which the panicles are located, is distributed over the surface of the sheathing in a fan-shape.
	Laying reeds on a closed roof is easier, since you don’t have to figure out where to fix the bales. This diagram shows an option for mounting on a plank base, secured with nails or self-tapping screws to the rafters of the structure. The reed flooring is fixed using wire with self-tapping screws fixed to it in advance in increments of 250÷300 mm.
	Another option for laying reeds is more complex. Using this technology, the sheaves are laid out along the edge of the roof, the ropes removed from them, and the stems are distributed over the surface of the sheathing. This method is complicated because it is very difficult to create the same thickness of the coating and then fix it to the base while maintaining the evenness of the edge. To use this method, you must have some experience in this type of work. It is recommended that the installation of the covering be carried out by two people - one will lay the sheaves on the roof, and the other will feed the material to the height. Again, from below you can better assess the evenness of the first row.
	The second row of reeds is laid so that its edge overlaps the places where the bales of the first row are tied (tied). At the same time, the edge of the second row should be located no more than 280÷300 mm from the edge of the eaves. This diagram shows the fastening of the roofing material using flexible willow or birch rods - vits (b) and clamps (a). The clamps are attracted by their faces to the sheathing elements or rafters and reliably hold the roofing material in one position.
	Today there is no particular need to harvest willow and birch twigs, especially since quite a large amount of them will be required. For these purposes, it is quite possible to use aluminum or galvanized wire. It is fixed on one side to the inside of the wind board, then stretched along the entire length of the laid row, departing 250÷300 mm from the lower edge of the sheaf.
	After this, in increments of 200÷250 mm, unique pins made of the same wire are installed. The length of the studs should be 150÷200 mm greater than the thickness of the reed covering and base. From the inside of the attic, the ends of the pins go around the bars or battens, twist, attracting a wire stretched over the surface of the reeds, which presses the bales to the surface of the base. The other edge of the pressure wire is secured to the inside of the wind board on the opposite gable of the roof.
Kevin E. Schmidt/QUAD-CITY TIMES Master thatcher Colin McGhee of Staunton, Va., works on the thatch roof of the German hausbarn being built in Lincoln Park in DeWitt, Iowa.	Combing (leveling) “under the brush” can be done immediately after laying each row of sheaves. Upon completion of the installation of the row, a kind of step is obtained, which must be brought to the same level as the underlying sheaves using a comb.
	When performing this procedure, the reeds are compacted (knocked down) by patting them with the same comb-spatula, while simultaneously “combing”. The first time, these actions may well not work out properly, since this work requires a certain skill. But you need to gain experience!
	Combs may differ in their design. So, some of them have a short handle, like a paint float. Such a tool is made of wood and usually has a standard size of 300x250x50 mm. Teeth 12÷15 mm high are cut on one surface of the comb, and a handle is attached to the other. On the end side of such a comb, in increments of 20–25 mm, nails are driven in, from which the heads are cut off. This part of the tool is intended for combing and straightening reed stems. However, it is difficult to compact with such a tool, so in addition, to nail down the coating, you need to have a heavy shovel.
	Today craftsmen mainly work with metal tools. Such blades have a relief on one side in the form of rings, pointed along the upper edge, which allows not only to compact the reeds, but also to level them, and also to comb them at the same time. As a result of this “treatment,” the roof acquires a uniform bristly coating with short pile. From a distance it looks velvety and soft.
	Next, the third row is laid out. Its edge should also be at a distance of 250÷280 mm from the edge of the previous laid sheaves. In the same way, work is carried out right up to the ridge.
	The ridge of a reed roof can be arranged in different ways. Previously, when covering the roof in the old Russian way, sheaves of reeds were bent over the ridge slope, creating the opportunity for rainwater to flow freely down both slopes. Laying reeds on the second slope of the roof is also done from the eaves, but having reached the ridge, the stems of the reeds are slipped under a row of reeds bent over the ridge element. On top of the ridge covered in this way, the sheaves need to be strengthened, and this is done with the help of special devices called chains (goats), made of poles of the same length. The goats are made on the ground and raised to a height in finished form, after which they are placed along the ridge at the same distance. The lower ends of the trestle are fixed to the laths of the sheathing, through through holes drilled in them and in the sheathing, into which wooden pins are driven. Heavy pressures are placed on top of the pins, which should firmly press the legs of the goat to the reed covering. On top of the reeds, on the ridge, it is laid and secured lightly.
	Another option for designing a ridge is made using tiled or metal ridge elements. If this method of forming a roof ridge is used, then first bales of reeds with a diameter of 100–120 mm are laid along the ridge pole or beam. Usually large, so-called combat reeds are used for them. These bales fill the space under the ridge elements, and at the same time maintain the possibility of ventilation of the under-roof space. In addition, there are other ways to make a skate, and they were mentioned above.
	The final stage of work is cleaning the roof surface from the debris remaining after “combing” the reeds, trimming and tamping down the eaves.

To conclude the presentation of information, I would like to emphasize that arranging a reed roof can be called a kind of art. And this process is not accessible to everyone. Therefore, if there is no practical experience in this area, and there is an element of self-doubt, then it is better to entrust such roofing work to professionals. This is easily explained - only a well-laid, knocked down and “combed” reed roof will have good performance characteristics.

If you really want to carry out this process yourself, it is recommended to first test your strength on the so-called template. To do this, you can take a sheet of plywood or knock down from a beam something similar to the sheathing of a rafter system. Then install the base at the angle at which the roof slopes are arranged, and try to lay and secure the sheaves of reeds using one of the selected methods. It will be enough to lay three rows of cover, and to facilitate initial training, experimental bales of smaller diameter can be made.

If you can securely fix the material on the surface, and then level it and “comb it”, then you can move on to larger-scale work. And yet, for the first experience, it is better to build a reed roof, say, on a garden gazebo - there will be a place to “get your teeth into.”

Will end today review of the video plot in which shows the work of professionals laying reed roofing:

Video: A very difficult task - laying a reed roof

Ceramic bricks are most often used to build a modern country house. However, you can do it differently by using reeds as a building material - a common and cheaper alternative to brick. Its use guarantees the construction of an eco-house and cost savings. We will tell you further how to build a house from reeds.

Properties of reeds

Building a reed house is generally more troublesome than a brick one. However, reeds will serve as a solution if there are not enough funds for brick construction. Before you decide to choose such an unusual building material, you should find out the properties of reeds. It has high thermal and sound insulation, is natural and environmentally friendly. In addition, a house made of reeds is not afraid of bad weather and other natural influences.

Reed slabs

To make the material suitable for construction, it must be tied with wire and slabs of reeds and beams must be prepared. They will truly become strong if the chopped stems are treated with polymer materials.

The slabs are made from reed stalks, which have been cleared of leaves and cut to the required length. The stems are folded one to the other and connected using wire, which is secured with staples. Reed slabs made in this way are called fascines; you can make them at home yourself and subsequently use them for partitions. Tubular hollow reed stems are suitable for work. Fachines can be made in different sizes depending on the scale and type of structure; they can be made rigid by increasing the mass of wire for fastening.

To make the material fireproof, it is plastered with boards with nails nailed to them, and then covered with a cement-gypsum mixture. The mass is applied in two layers: first thick, then liquid. In addition, the junction of the slab and frame should be reinforced with a metal mesh to prevent the plaster from cracking in the future.

When building a house from reeds, it is allowed to use brick. They should do the masonry inside and plaster it. In this case, the building will be more stable.

To build a house from reeds, you need a frame into which the slabs will be installed. Today you can purchase industrially produced reed slabs, which can already be plastered. European experience shows that the construction of houses using reed slabs is gaining momentum. Moreover, this cheap material is used in the construction of expensive luxury buildings.

A large number of environmental disasters that have occurred recently have provoked a craving for people to use organic materials in construction. Wood, straw, sawdust, reeds and modern natural-based materials can be used in the construction of walls, roofs, floors, and as effective insulation.

The use of reeds gives architects the greatest opportunities for creativity.

Homes made from organic raw materials - what are the options?

Most natural building materials have been known to mankind since ancient times, being inexpensive and accessible:

wood- one of the most acceptable options for the construction of a cottage, gazebos and utility buildings. It has high strength and good thermal insulation properties, ease of processing, and does not require a massive foundation. Special treatment helps protect buildings from rot, insects and fire. The service life of a wooden house is more than a century;
reed provides high-quality heat and sound insulation. Even a 10 cm thick wall made of it successfully replaces brickwork, protecting from frost in winter and from heat in summer. The minimum durability of structures is 50 years, but in practice there are cases when such buildings were able to stand for more than a century and a half;
Houses with filling of enclosing structures with straw in combination with a wooden frame and clay plaster, they are characterized by a service life of over a century;
shell rock It is superior to brick in thermal conductivity, has a more affordable cost and is environmentally friendly, but is inferior to it in strength properties. Durability - more than 50 years.

Interesting! Interaction with metal can destroy the human aura by 30%, with brick - by 15%, wood is neutral with respect to the biofield, and straw, depending on the degree of processing, can increase it by 5-15%.

adobe made from sand, clay, straw, water and earth. Masonry is carried out when the material is still in a plastic state. The durability of structures is several centuries;
wood concrete- material made of concrete and wood with a predominance of the latter. Structures made from it are characterized by strength, light weight, ease of operation, resistance to rotting, fire safety, and the ability to “breathe.” The disadvantage of the material is high water absorption, so additional treatment of external walls or installation of a curtain facade is required. The minimum service life of a house is 50 years.

In modern construction, natural materials compressed in the form of mats and undergoing special treatment are successfully used for thermal insulation. Insulate the house reeds, peat, moss, waste from the woodworking industry, wool. To increase performance characteristics during the production of mats, synthetic binders can be added.

Reed roofing.

Reeds in individual construction

This plant is used for the production of thermal insulation boards, construction of walls, and roofing of low-rise buildings for various purposes. Reeds are used by private developers in the construction of cottages, utility rooms, sheds, and various small architectural forms that perform a decorative function.

It is suitable for the construction of small cafes, motels, shops. Modern industry produces slabs and beams from plant raw materials by pressing, which serve as building materials.

Advantages of reed houses:

availability and cost-effectiveness of raw materials;
simplicity of construction technology;
environmental friendliness - with a positive effect on health, the use of the plant helps to clear water bodies;
durability and lack of susceptibility to rot;
seismic resistance and the ability to effectively resist hurricane winds;
waterproof;
good thermal insulation - 4 times better than wood and 7 times higher than the characteristics of brick;
high speed of construction - a panel house made of reeds can be erected within a few weeks;
effective noise protection that does not require additional sound insulation;
possibility of partial repair of structures;
originality and uniqueness of the architecture of each house;
natural ventilation.

Important! The disadvantages of reeds include its fire hazard due to its high cellulose content and the likelihood of being attractive to rodents. These shortcomings can be easily eliminated by impregnating the material with fire retardants, which additionally provide bioprotection and ensure water-repellent qualities.

Properties of the material - reed as the main and auxiliary material

This plant is extremely similar in chemical composition to wood, so it can be used to produce building materials traditionally made from it. Contained close in the reeds 21% pentosans, 29% lignin, 41% cellulose.

Modern building products from plant materials.

From whole stems they are made on special machines using steel wire stitching. mats, slabs, fascines and beams. Products are produced in the factory in the form of Eurosheaves and rolls. The arrangement of the stems can be longitudinal or transverse.

Technical characteristics of reed mats:

volumetric weight 150-250 kg/m3 (this figure can be increased to 350 kg/m3);
bending strength 2.7-3.5 kg/cm2;
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.06-0.11 kcal/m hour deg;
water absorption 18%;
flammability class G2-G3, products treated with fire retardants - G1;
lack of compression work.

It is possible to make fascines from reeds at home - for this, hollow stems, cut to the required length, are laid in longitudinal or perpendicular directions and fixed with wire, the amount of which determines the rigidity of the products. The thickness of the slabs is 2-5 cm. When producing independently, for ease of work, preference is given to small dimensions of products.

Reed slabs do not have high fire resistance, but the presence of stone or concrete layers of structure and protective coatings allows them to be considered as fire-resistant. This makes it possible to use them in the construction of flat roofs and external self-supporting walls.

Important! Reed materials can be used in the construction of buildings with a height of more than 2 floors, subject to the calculation of the fire resistance limit for each specific case.

Use in construction:

thermal insulation liners for laminated panels;
filling frame walls of low-rise buildings;
rolling along floor beams - laying under linoleum, parquet is possible;
insulation of brick and concrete structures;
finishing of dry rooms;
production of window sills and filling of openings;
the use of reeds for;
installation of roofs of various types - from wicker material (Central Asia), with the application of bitumen waterproofing (Romania), the addition of clay (agricultural buildings);
reinforcement of adobe walls;

Important! The use of reed materials is undesirable in enclosing structures of rooms with high humidity due to the likelihood of rotting.

Modern houses made of reeds in the photo

Waternet office building on the water in Amsterdam. The idea of the facades is a combination of planes with completely different textures with reed trim and large glass planes.

A private two-story house with a reed roof and two facades combines features of various architectural styles.

A private house in the Netherlands, the city of Zoetermeer, is designed in a minimalist style. The facades feature an original combination of the textured surface of reeds, smooth concrete and glass planes.

Classic cottage with reed roofing.

The original roof of the mansion, covered with reeds, goes well with the brickwork.

The cottage has a combination of a log frame and a reed roof of an unusual configuration.

Organic architecture using reeds for roofing.

Temporary housing made of reeds is a quick and budget option.

with a wooden frame and reed filling.

Lightweight “wicker” gazebo on the beach

The original construction of a bathhouse made of reeds.

The canopy over the embankment and pier is an unexpected small architectural form.

House made of reeds and clay - how to build

Due to the characteristics of the material, they are used to build exclusively low-rise buildings, but there are no restrictions on their area. It could be a house made of reeds 12 by 12 meters, a compact gazebo 2 by 2, a spacious mansion, . One option is to resort to the services of professionals, the other is to do all the work yourself, which does not require the use of equipment - it is enough to have some construction skills.

Step-by-step instructions for building a cottage from reeds:

foundation construction - due to the lightness of the structures, a massive foundation is not required, a shallow option is possible;
laying roofing felt, coating the foundation with hot bitumen;
installation of the lower belt of the planks and its waterproofing;
construction of a wooden frame from racks, fixed to the lower belt with through tenons, and to the upper belt - with blind ones, and horizontal clamping boards. Fastening with 125-150 mm nails is possible;
the distance between the axes of the load-bearing posts is 1.3-2.5 m, determined based on the weight of the walls and roof, the installation interval of the rafters. The distance between intermediate vertical elements is 0.65-1.0 m;
pressure boards with a thickness of 16-20 and a width of 80 mm are mounted on one side of the frame to the racks, cutting to their level, in increments of 250-300 mm. This interval is due to the limited nailability of reed slabs, which can only be attached to wooden elements;

Advice! It is advisable to fill the frame with reeds after constructing the roof.

Installation of reed roofing

installation of a rafter system with a minimum slope of 35°. The recommended type of construction is non-thrust with bottom tightening;
installation of wooden lathing with a pitch of 250-300 mm for the roof. A 25 mm board or a 50x50 mm block can be used;
laying sheaves of reeds begins from the lower edge of the roof. Several packages are fixed to the sheathing elements using stainless or galvanized steel wire, then secured horizontally with a metal rod;

Advice! Reed consumption per 1 m2 of coverage is approximately 10 sheaves.

the sheaves, initially laid upward with “tassels”, are opened and leveled using a special brush to obtain a layer of 30-35 cm and whipped upward to give shape to the roof;
filling the wall frame with slabs attached to the wood with nails, or sheaves of reeds with a diameter of 120-180 mm, followed by fixation with pressure boards for high-quality compaction. When using a two-layer filling, the fibers of the mats must be placed in different directions;
installation of partitions using sheaves 100 mm thick;

Wall of a reed house

Important! To protect the reeds from rot, the mats are treated with a solution of copper sulfate (10%) or sodium fluoride (3%).

plastering the walls on both sides with a clay composition with the addition of straw or lime, and their lower parts with cement to protect them from rodents. The solution is applied twice - first in a thick layer, then in a thinner layer.

The video shows in detail the process of filling the wall frame with reeds, pressing it, and gives practical recommendations for performing the work.

Reed insulation

This plant with a tubular stem structure has excellent thermal insulation qualities. A layer of material 15 cm thick has parameters corresponding to 40 cm of brickwork. In addition, slabs made from it have good vapor permeability and the ability to resist moisture penetration.

Insulation of floors with reeds on the ground

Effective insulation with reeds is possible ceilings in a private house, ceilings, walls, roofs of attic rooms. The material is produced by modern industry in the form slabs and rolls. Used for thermal insulation of wooden, concrete, brick structures.

Installation of a vapor barrier is optional, while the reeds can perform a decorative function in the interior. Rolled insulation is also laid between joists up to 20 cm high. A wooden floor or decking can be installed on top of reed slabs laid on the ceiling.

Insulating the attic floor with reeds

Turnkey construction of an eco-house - who is doing it, where to see the projects, price level

Eco-friendly buildings are built using fairly new technologies, which are based on ancient methods. You can order turnkey construction of a cottage from a construction company specializing in this area. As a rule, these are small companies, when choosing which you should pay attention to their experience and reputation in the market. They will provide you with a catalog of standard projects - you can choose from them, order the adaptation of the one you like to your own requirements, or the development of an individual one. Eco-houses are small in size, and it makes no sense to contact a large company to build a single object, if we are not talking about a whole complex.

Analysis of today's market shows that the average cost of building from wood concrete, straw, shell rock, adobe and reeds is approximately the same and amounts to about 200$ per square meter. Prices may vary depending on the number of floors, area of the building, complexity of architectural, design and engineering solutions. In particular, prices for the construction of a reed cottage fluctuate in the range $150-400 per square meter.