Thanks to its long vines and decorative appearance, this vine will turn your home into a jungle in a short time. Propagating hoya by cuttings will help you get many new plants in a short time. This is one of the easiest ways, with virtually no negative results. How to take cuttings correctly and what is the best place to root them?

Harvesting cuttings

For everything to go well, you need to take sharp scissors to take cuttings, after wiping them with alcohol. For propagation, it is better to use healthy shoots, but not too long. These will need more moisture, and the tips of the chibouks may dry out. It is enough for the cutting to have 2 leaves and a pair of living buds.

Hoya propagation by cuttings - what and how to root

You can root cuttings in different ways by planting them in:

1. Small pots with loose substrate. In it, the hoya grows roots well and will form from 2 to 4 young leaves in a year. Scourges most often appear only the next year.
2. Plastic cups with vermiculite. Flower growers who practice this method have noticed that cuttings grow faster in it. After just 11 months, they grow new lashes and in the first year they can produce a branch or two up to 40 cm long.
3. Glass of water. Cover the top of the glass with foil, make a hole in it and insert the stem into it. The foil will protect from light to prevent green algae from appearing. The roots will appear in about 2-3 weeks and then the hoya can be planted in the ground.

When rooting in water, it is advisable to add a little.

The cuttings should grow roots in a greenhouse so that they do not dry out. Periodically it needs to be ventilated, moistened the soil (vermiculite) or added water. You can remove the cover after the first signs of growth of leaves or vines appear.

Young bushes should be placed for growing on a bright windowsill in a room with a temperature of at least 22°C. To make the process more active, you can sometimes fertilize the hoya with water from the aquarium. A mineral complex for orchids is also suitable.

If planting material for propagating hoya by cuttings was ordered through the mail, problems often arise. If the packaging is incorrect, the cuttings dry out and lose their elasticity during the journey. They need to be placed in sugared water for a couple of hours and the turgor will be restored.

Ripe seeds are slightly dried and sown in a substrate with good air permeability (for example, with the addition of sphagnum moss, pieces of burlap or felt). The ability of seeds to germinate quickly disappears; they should be sown fresh (no later than 1 year after collection).

By the end of the week, the seeds germinate and require careful care:

• the substrate should not be allowed to dry out;
• Do not over-moisten the soil;
• lighting should be good;
• should be treated with a fungicide for preventive purposes (Bordeaux mixture). The use of drugs containing copper is strictly contraindicated.

You can sow seeds into pieces of sphagnum moss, wrapped in a nylon mesh: the moss is damp, the seeds grow through the mesh cells. Seedlings are transplanted into pots together with moss, the roots are not damaged.

In about 3 months healthy seedlings are transplanted into separate pots. About 80% of plants can be grown from seeds; if the percentage of germination is less, it means the seeds have lost their viability or the roots of the seedlings have rotted.

It is difficult to find hoya seeds; more often they use other methods for propagation.

What do the seeds look like?

Hoi grown in apartments do not produce seed pods. There are no insects that pollinate hoya in our latitudes. Hoya seeds are small in size, have light “parachutes”, reminiscent of dandelion seeds (they look just as “fluffy”)

When to plant?

Regardless of the time of year, you can sow hoya seeds, if they are fresh and have not lost their germination.

Propagation by cuttings

This method is the most popular; when favorable conditions are created (high humidity and the right temperature), rooting occurs well.

There should be 2 nodes on the cutting (these will form leaves or form roots).

There are several ways to root cuttings:

1. 1. In water(leaves are removed from the nodes on the cutting, treated with root hormone and placed in water). Place the container in a warm place (22 degrees), maintain high humidity (you can cover it with plastic wrap, a greenhouse will form). After 2 weeks, the roots that have appeared will be noticeable; they should be transplanted into pots without waiting until they grow long (they become fragile and break off).
   2. Into hard substrate(porous soil mixture, perlite, peat tablets, vermiculite, sphagnum moss) cuttings are planted after treatment with a powder that accelerates root formation. Humidity should be maintained (excess water should drain out), protected from moisture evaporation (spray regularly or cover with glass).

To root hoya, the peat tablet should be moistened, the dried cuttings should be placed in the recess of the tablet, and covered with a bag on top (creating a mini greenhouse). After 2 weeks, roots will appear; you can plant them together with the tablet in a pot.

1. Step-by-step rooting instructions in breathable soil:
   • the cut stalk with 2 nodes should be dried;
   • pour soil with a high peat content into a plastic container;
   • place the cutting in the soil (up to the internode), water lightly;
   • cover the container with a lid, making holes in it for ventilation;
   • place in a warm place (22 degrees) until rooting.

When is the best time to propagate from cuttings?

Hoya can be propagated using cuttings from shoots from the previous year. at any time of the year except winter.

From a sheet

This method is labor-intensive and may not always be successful. Before planting, the leaf should be treated with a growth stimulator (kinetin, adenine sulfate). Leaves can remain leaves for a long time, even after the appearance of a powerful root system. To grow Hoya from a leaf, it is necessary that the leaf has a piece of cutting (the growing point is located in it).


When trying to propagate hoya by leaf, it must be planted in a tight pot and fed periodically. Some gardeners managed to get shoots after stimulating the hoya leaf with roots (driing the substrate, lowering the temperature, creating good lighting). Shoot growth was observed after the first year of leaf life.

How to root?

For better rooting, you must follow the recommendations:

• take short cuttings;
• plant several cuttings in one pot;
• take healthy cuttings for rooting;
• Rooting occurs faster at a temperature of 22 degrees;
• spraying is required (humidity must be high);
• place pots nearby to increase humidity;
• stir into the soil (for large hoi) 1 node with leaves and 4 nodes for small species;
• you need to place the growing end of the cutting in the ground, not the cut end;
• as long as the cutting is green, you can hope that it will take root;
• cuttings should not be rotated during rooting;
• when placed in a warm place, growth is noticeable after 2-3 weeks;
• some species grow a long shoot that needs to be tied up.

An adult plant will need support to make it easier for the vine shoots to develop.

Photo

Next you will see photos of Hoya seeds and propagation:

Hoya is an evergreen tropical vine belonging to the Swallow family. In the wild, it is found in the southern and eastern regions of Asia, as well as in Australia and the islands of Polynesia. More than 200 species of this plant have been well studied and described.

Hoya develops well in normal indoor conditions with good lighting and average temperature readings. For a long time it pleases with the beauty of flowering and sweet fragrance. It has a beneficial effect on the home atmosphere, purifying the air from harmful impurities.

Hoya types and varieties photos

– an evergreen vine, in nature reaching up to 10 m. Covered with long green leaves with silvery spots. It has inflorescences in the form of a hemisphere, consisting of 20 pink-cream flowers similar to double five-pointed stars. Gives off a strong honey smell. Needs light, loose soil and timely watering.

– this plant has long stems and leaves that look like green hearts. Produces hemispherical inflorescences of 15 star-shaped flowers. The coloring can be white, yellow, pink, and in the center there is a red corolla. When growing this species, you need to provide it with a bright place and a room temperature of + 25 ° C.

- an evergreen thin vine from which many shoots grow. The leaves are diamond-shaped and elongated. The inflorescences consist of seven star-shaped flowers united into an umbrella. This plant does not like large pots. It is often planted in small hanging pots. Needs light and watering three times a week. The water temperature should be several degrees above room temperature.

- consists of climbing stems one and a half millimeters thick. Overgrown with fleshy leaves with silver inclusions. It has umbrella-shaped inflorescences of 15 double white flowers. It emits a pungent odor reminiscent of tulips. The plant can withstand temperatures down to +10 °C. You need to water with warm water after the top soil has dried.

- a climbing vine with fleshy leaves on which silvery blotches appear. It has umbrella-shaped inflorescences of 20 double flowers with five edges. The smell of flowers is pleasant and sweet. The plant is grown in hanging pots with loose soil. Loves a lot of light, so it is recommended to place it next to a window.

Branched species with dense vegetation. The foliage is green, elongated, and turns red in sunlight. It blooms with umbrella inflorescences of golden color. The flowers are small in the form of five-pointed stars - from 30 to 50 of them can grow in one umbrella. They emit a faint scent of perfume. Loves frequent watering and moist air.

- consists of branched vines that are overgrown with dense foliage. All leaves have a curved, twisted shape and variegated colors with a glossy sheen. The flowers are white and pink, united in inflorescences in the form of a hemisphere. Grows in any soil and does not require regular watering. Blooms well in tight pots.

– this variety has twining vines of a dark purple hue with dense vegetation. The leaves in the center can be yellow or reddish, and the edges green. The inflorescences after the buds open resemble a hemisphere. Lilac flowers with a dark corolla. The inflorescences bloom and delight with beauty throughout the year.

Plants for growing in hanging pots. It consists of many thin vines on which nodes of long and narrow leaves grow. It produces inflorescences of two or three white flowers, but more often the buds are single. They emit a very weak and almost imperceptible odor. Likes the soil to be always moist, but not soggy.

A plant with long, pointed leaves that are dotted with silvery patches. These spots turn red in direct sunlight. It has inflorescences consisting of 20 flowers. They come in red and white or pink. They emit a faint but sweet odor.

- consists of thin vines on which variegated, round-shaped leaves grow. Produces inflorescences of 20-30 light pink flowers. The central part of the flowers is decorated with dark purple corollas, from which nectar is released. Exudes a sweet honey smell.

- a plant with large leaves and a rigid, straight stem. It grows quickly and blooms regularly. It has inflorescences of 15 white-yellow flowers of unusual shape. They resemble arrow tips or small rockets. Grows well in large pots with a drainage layer. Prefers to be in a semi-shaded place.

- a plant with long and fleshy leaves, the surface of which is painted with silvery spots. It produces umbellate inflorescences consisting of 30 flowers. There are varieties with gray-black and pink buds. The plant develops well at temperatures no higher than +25 °C. It is necessary to water after the soil dries out.

– designed for hanging pots. Consists of long hanging vines that are covered with narrow leaves. Produces inflorescences of 12 soft white flowers. Grows well in universal soil with added peat. The plant is moisture-loving, so it needs to be watered often.

A plant with a compact form and long leaves. Produces inflorescences of 25 fluffy flowers. The color of the buds is red with a dark corolla from which nectar drips. It grows quickly in lighted areas with abundant watering. Loves loose soils with drainage.

A variety with flexible and branched vines that are covered with dense foliage. These leaves have a pleasant color to the eye. They are green in the central part and yellow-cream along the edges. Inflorescences consisting of 25 light pink flowers grow on the stems. The plant loves loose soil, moderate watering and good lighting.

– has thin and curly stems with long and fleshy leaves. It produces umbrella-shaped inflorescences, which consist of 10-30 flowers. The color of the petals varies from white-cream to light pink. They bloom for ten days, then new buds appear in their place. It develops well at an air temperature of +25 °C. Loves regular watering, but without waterlogging.

- a plant with thin vines and large decorative leaves. Each sheet has a unique design. The glossy surface is mottled or dotted with yellow-green spots. The inflorescences are umbellate, consisting of 10-25 white-violet flowers. Prefers to grow at +18 °C, but adapts well to higher temperatures.

A plant with powerful vines and fleshy leaves that have a decorative color. Their surface is yellow-green, and the edges are dark green and vice versa. In direct sunlight they take on a purple hue. After the buds open, the inflorescences take the shape of a hemisphere and consist of 25-35 white flowers.

– consists of thin hanging vines and long leaves with a variegated surface. When exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves turn pink. The flowers bloom double with a pink tint and a yellow-violet corolla. They are united in umbrella-shaped inflorescences of 15-20 buds. Likes to be in bright light in the morning. You need to water 2-3 times a week.

- a plant with strong stems on which large and fleshy leaves grow. They are oval and have patterns on the surface that resemble the pattern of a tortoise shell. It produces umbellate inflorescences consisting of 20 white flowers. Needs light in the morning and frequent watering. The content temperature can vary from +18 °C to +35 °C.

- consists of thin weaving vines with fleshy leaves. The leaves have ribbed edges and bumps on the surface and are variegated in color. The plant produces umbrella-shaped inflorescences, which consist of 6-15 white flowers. Loves frequent watering and moderate lighting without direct sunlight.

Hoya care at home

The flower is easy to grow at home. To do this, you need to provide the plant with a small hanging pot and standard care. Hoya, like any other houseplant, needs good lighting, timely watering and the right temperature.

Hoya is a light-loving plant, so it needs to be placed in a bright place. This can be a well-lit room or a window sill on the east or west side. Avoid direct sunlight, which can cause the foliage to turn yellow and fall off.

Due to its tropical origin, the flower loves warmth. In winter and summer, the ideal condition for plant development is a temperature from +15 °C to + 25 °C. But the flower can easily adapt to lower or higher heat readings.

Stapelia is also a member of the Lastovneve family. It can be grown with care at home without much hassle if all the rules of agricultural technology are followed. You can find all the necessary recommendations for growing and caring for this wonderful plant in this article.

Watering Hoya

Watering needs to be given special attention. Try to moisten the soil in a timely manner, avoiding waterlogging or drying out.

If moisture has accumulated on the tray cup, remove it. In summer, it is recommended to water twice a week, and in winter once. For watering, use warm and settled water.

Soil for hoya

Hoya can grow in any soil, but in fertile soil this process will occur faster. Standard soil mixtures for indoor plants or palm trees sold in stores are suitable.

If you want to prepare the soil yourself, use leaf soil, turf, humus and sand. Mix these ingredients well in a ratio of 3:2:2:1. You can also add tree bark to the soil, which will provide good breathability.

Hoya transplant at home

The flower needs to be replanted every 3 years. This procedure is carried out in April. To transplant a plant from one pot to another, use the transfer method. After this, you just need to add soil.

If you plan to completely replace the soil, clear the root system of the old soil. Remove dried or rotten roots. Then place the flower in a new pot, carefully covering it with soil.

Hoya pot

Most often, hanging pots are chosen for planting or replanting. They can be plastic, ceramic or wicker.

If you want your plant to grow well, choose spacious pots. To obtain abundant flowering, use small pots.

Fertilizers for hoya

In order for Hoya to develop quickly and bloom profusely, it needs to be fed regularly. Do this every month, starting in the spring and ending in the fall. In winter, do not fertilize.

Use Osmokot long-acting fertilizers as top dressing - once a month. Also spray the plant with liquid humus, which contains a high content of microelements - twice a month.

Hoya pruning

Hoya should not be cut or broken off, especially the flower stalks - the stems on which the inflorescences appear.

Even after the flowering period has ended, they do not need to be removed, because old flower stalks can still produce new inflorescences. Ordinary shoots are also not broken off, but supports are placed for them so that they can weave along them.

Hoya bloom

The plant produces flowers two years after rooting or earlier. Flowering begins in June and ends in July, then repeats in the fall. The flowers look like five-pointed, fluffy stars with a corolla. They form inflorescences resembling an umbrella or a hemisphere.

The buds come in different shades: white, red, gray, pink, yellow, and mixed. They secrete nectar, which has a honey smell. If there are several species in the room, then it is filled with a pleasant fragrance.

Hoya in winter

In winter, hoya needs to provide a lower room temperature than in summer. Recommended maintenance temperature is no more than +15 °C.

If the plant is kept warm in winter, few inflorescences will appear in summer.

Hoya propagation by seeds

The seed must be no older than one year. Dry the purchased seeds and plant them in loose soil. To ensure that the soil absorbs moisture well, mix pieces of artificial fabric - felt or burlap - into it. The seedlings will sprout in seven days.

During this period, the soil should not be allowed to become waterlogged or dry out. Seedlings should be kept in a warm room with good lighting. After three months, when the sprouts have become stronger, they can be transplanted into pots.

Hoya propagation by cuttings

Cut short cuttings, which should contain 2-3 leaves and several nodes. Place them in a jar, wrapped in foil to keep out the light. Fill with water at a temperature of +22 °C to +25 °C.

Place the cuttings in a shaded and warm place. To create greenhouse conditions, the cuttings can be covered with foil. In this state they will stand for two weeks and send out roots from the nodes. Then transplant them into pots with soil.

Hoya propagation by leaf

This is the longest and most difficult way to grow a flower. Not all leaves, having sprung roots, become a full-fledged plant. For this method you will need a root growth stimulator, chemical hormones and light, loose soil.

Soak the leaf stalk with the stimulant and plant it in a pot with moist soil at an angle of 45°. In a month the roots will begin to sprout. During this period, the leaf needs to be given a hormone for the development of shoots - heteroauxin. Apply a few drops to the base of the stem and within a week a shoot will appear.

Hoya diseases

Hoya doesn't bloom – the reason for this frequent phenomenon may be a lack of light, high air temperature in the room during wintering, a large pot size, frequent watering, especially in winter.

To make the plant bloom, place it near a window or provide artificial lighting. In winter, move the flower to a cool room where the temperature is no higher than +15 °C. Transplant the hoya into a small pot with a diameter of no more than 20 cm. After watering, allow the soil to dry completely.

The leaves are turning yellow – this is affected by a lack or excess of illumination. Some varieties are adversely affected by direct sunlight, which burns the foliage. Soil dampness also affects the yellowing of leaves.

The problem can be solved by moving the flower to a shaded place on the floor. If your variety loves a lot of light, place it in a bright room. In summer, water the plant no more than twice a week, and in winter once.

– if new leaves or shoots do not appear on your flower for a long time, check and eliminate the following reasons: the room is too dark, there is not enough fertilizer containing nitrogen, the pot is too small, the flower stalks are cut off.

You need to feed the flower twice a month with fertilizers for indoor plants. For varieties with fleshy leaves, you need to reduce the dose by half. Also transplant the hoya into a larger pot and hang it in a bright place near an east or west window.

soft leaves

Excess moisture and fertilizers. Both of these factors have a detrimental effect on the root system. A lot of fertilizers burn the roots, and dampness suffocates the roots and they rot. Without roots, the plant stops receiving moisture and nutrients. As a result, the leaves become dehydrated, becoming like a rag.

To solve this problem, reduce the fertilizing dose by half or temporarily stop fertilizing. Also monitor the soil moisture - it should always dry out after the next watering.

Spots on leaves – an infectious disease caused by fungi or viruses. Fungal stains are easy to distinguish from viral ones. To do this you need to rub the sheet. If the stain is erased, it means it was a fungal coating. If you can see by eye that the stain has eaten into the leaf, it means that this is viral necrosis, due to which the cellular tissues of the leaf die.

These spots are the result of the activity of microorganisms that feed on cell sap. Therefore, you can kill them if you use antibiotics or fungicidal drugs.

Hoya pests

Shields - small insects that feed on plant sap. They stick to leaves or stems and resemble brown or red cocoons. As a result of the actions of pests, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the stems develop incorrectly. Insecticides will help cope with scale insects.

Medicinal properties of hoya

This flower not only decorates, but also heals. Calms the nervous system, elevates mood, relieves headaches, helps with skin diseases and heals purulent wounds. The leaves are used to treat all these diseases.

Headaches are treated by placing a leaf on the temple. Skin problems are solved by grinding the leaves into a paste, which is applied to the damaged area and wrapped in a bandage.

Side effects: The smell emitted by flowers can cause severe headaches. Therefore, people with chronic migraines should avoid this plant. The leaves also cause dermatitis in allergy sufferers.

Cooking recipes

Treatment of purulent wounds: chop three leaves of the plant and two cups of oatmeal. Then add water and stir until it becomes a paste. Lubricate the wounds with the ointment for ten minutes, then wash off. Repeat the procedure three times a day for two weeks.

Treatment of boils – chop a leaf of the plant and apply it to the inflamed area. Then wrap it with a bandage. Change the bandage twice a day. After the condition improves, you can reduce the number of dressings.

–hanging plant, belongs to the genus of evergreen shrubs and lianas.

Also called wax ivy.

Hoya grows in South and Southeast Asia, Polynesia and Australia.

Interesting fact!The plant was named by the Scottish scientist Brown in honor of his friend the English gardener Thomas Hoy, who grew plants in the gardens of the Duke of Northumberland.

Optimal conditions for growing hoya

Location and lighting

Hoya prefers good lighting and can easily tolerate direct sunlight. But in active sunshine, burns may form on the leaves of the vine.

Hoya is best placed on western and eastern windows. If the plant is still located on the south window, then in the summer it is better for the hoya to create diffused light (throw tulle over the window).

Important! Hoya will not be able to bloom on northern windows.

Temperature: summer-winter

In summer, the most optimal temperature for hoya, which is grown indoors, will be 25 degrees Celsius, and in winter - not lower than 16 degrees.

If in winter the temperature exceeds 20 degrees Celsius, then the seasonal flowering of hoya will be thin and insignificant.

Hoya is a moisture-loving plant. The vine is watered abundantly from March to October, but it needs the most active watering in the summer.

As soon as you notice that the soil has dried out, you need to water the plant with settled water. Don’t forget to also care for your hoya: clear the stems and soil under the plant.

From November it is recommended to reduce watering of hoya. In winter, the plant does not require much moisture, so it can be watered 4-5 days after the top layer of soil has dried. The water temperature for irrigation in winter should be lukewarm.

Did you know? If the hoya is rarely watered, then some of the plant's roots die and the growing season begins.

Air humidity

Hoya is not demanding when it comes to moisture. But it won’t hurt to periodically spray the plant in spring and summer.

Important! When spraying hoya, moisture should not get on the flowers.

Fertilizing the soil

During the growing season, Hoya needs to be fed every 2-3 weeks. It is recommended to use complex mineral fertilizer for hoya. In winter, the plant does not need feeding.

Need to know! Before you start fertilizing the Hoya, you need to replant the plant (for young plants, replanting is needed every year).

An adult Hoya plant needs to be replanted every three years. The plant loves slightly acidic or neutral soil (pH 5.5 to 6). It is also recommended to replant a young plant every year (up to 3 years).

Hoya is unpretentious to soil. The best substrate for it will be a mix of clay-turf, greenhouse and leaf soil (2:1:1). The second soil option: clay-turf, leaf soil, sand and peat (2:1:1:1).

When choosing soil, you should also consider the variety of hoya. For example, Hoya the Beautiful loves a mixture of humus, leaf soil, peat, sand and a small part of charcoal.

Important! Hoya needs good drainage when planting and replanting.

Hoya propagation at home

Wax ivy can be propagated at home in three ways: hoya from seeds, cuttings and propagation by layering.

If you become the owner hoya seeds, then they are planted in soil consisting of an earthen mixture and sphagnum moss. Water generously and after a week, the seeds begin to germinate. Hoya seedlings should remain moist, but not flooded with water. The pot with seeds should be kept in a warm and medium-lit place.

To protect young hoya sprouts from fungal diseases, spray them with a solution of copper-containing preparations. After about 3 months, when the sprouts produce a pair of leaves, transplant them into separate pots.

Interesting fact!It is almost impossible to obtain hoya seeds at home.

The next method of reproduction is hoya cuttings. It is considered the most reliable and easiest way to propagate a plant.

The cutting you want to plant should be approximately 10 cm long. It should have a couple of leaves and nodes. Hoya cuttings can be rooted in either water or soil.

When rooting in water, you will need a small container wrapped in foil. Make holes in the foil for the cuttings. Don't forget to fill the container with water.

Leave a couple of upper leaves on the cuttings, and treat the lower part with a root growth stimulator. Push the cuttings through the holes made in the foil into the container.

When rooting cuttings, the most optimal temperature will be 22 degrees Celsius. At the same time, do not forget that constant humidity is important for cuttings.

To do this, place a bag over the container with the cuttings, leaving an opening for air. Thus, the humidity will be constant, but the cuttings will not suffocate.

Hoya cuttings begin to sprout roots after 2 weeks. It is necessary to plant the rooted shoots in the ground in a permanent place, since growing roots has weakened the stem and the cuttings will become even more fragile.

Hoya is a favorite flower of many women for several reasons. This is an excellent option for decorating and landscaping a room. The climbing vine requires simple care and is not capricious. Hoya inflorescences fill the room with an extraordinary aroma, which is sure to attract attention from the outside.

If the hoya indoor plant is your favorite, then it can be propagated indefinitely. Planting rules are varied. There are examples of rooting cuttings directly in the ground (substrate), growing a young shoot from seeds or leaves. The optimal time for propagation is spring, when young buds and leaves form on the mother plant. However, it is better to “plant” last year’s cuttings or shoots 2-3 years old.
For me, the most acceptable method of propagating hoya is to root the stem in water. Let's follow the process using calendar dates.

So, violating all the laws of nature, hoya begins to reproduce on February 4th. An adult plant looks like this.

I separate the cutting from it. The distance from the node with 4 leaves to the cut is approximately 2-3 cm. I put the hoya in a glass with warm, settled water.

Next, I create greenhouse conditions for the plant, cover the glass with a plastic bag and send it to the windowsill. Periodically I open the greenhouse, change the warm water or put the plant on a warm (not hot!) radiator.

However, I will not plant the plant in the ground yet. I remove the plastic bag, let the cutting meet spring with me. The first sunny days appeared.
By March 8, the roots had stretched and strengthened. The seedling can be safely sent to a flower pot.

I pour soil on top of the drainage, or rather a universal substrate purchased at the store. I place the cutting in the recess.

I gently press the soil around the stem with my fingers to level the hoya. After watering the seedling, I place the flower pot on the windowsill. That's all the wisdom of reproduction.

Let's look at the calendar. Today is March 20th. The hoya has taken root and put out young leaves. We take a photo for memory.

An adult liana, anticipating warmer weather, also showed fresh greenery. Now we just have to wait for summer, when the period of active flowering begins. We will transplant the “young” hoya into a larger pot next spring or a year later. It all depends on how much the cutting stretches over the specified period of time.

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