How to dig a well at the dacha, near the house. What is the easiest way to dig a well: a comparative review of digging methods How to dig a well yourself

Map of water sources for digging wells in the Moscow region

The main negative aspect of owning a summer cottage is this is the distance from central communications and water in this case is no exception.

At the moment, there are only 2 types of autonomous water supply at a summer cottage:

Firstly, it is necessary to correctly determine the location of the future well. After all, this place must not only coincide with the layout of your summer cottage, but also meet safety requirements and the presence of an aquifer.

Expert advice!

Before planning a summer cottage, and even more so before building a house, call surveyors to accurately and correctly determine the location. After all, the only place with water can get to the site of your future home. It’s even better to check with your neighbors before purchasing a summer cottage whether there is water and in what quantity.

Construction of a well in a country house - how we work

Our company’s specialists have been constructing wells for more than 10 years, during which an optimal algorithm for carrying out the work has been developed. After concluding a cooperation agreement, on a pre-agreed day, a team of employees will come to your dacha and deliver the necessary materials - reinforced concrete rings and connecting structures, backfill for the filter layer, bottom shield and elements of external decorative finishing.

Further work will be performed in the following sequence:

Search for water. It is most rational to use the dowsing method to determine the aquifer, since it does not require absolutely any financial costs. To do this, take two aluminum wires, which are bent into the shape of the letter L and inserted into hollow tubes so that the wires rotate freely around their axis. Next, the specialist walks through the summer cottage and looks for a place where the wires cross each other - this indicates the presence of water. As practice shows, the accuracy of this method is 85-90%.
Mine development. The shaft under the well is dug manually, 4 people do this. One operates a shovel inside the mine, the second is on top and lifts the excavated soil to the surface, while the second pair of workers rests.
. After the shaft is deepened to the height of the ring, the first reinforced concrete product is installed into it - the structure is moved using a winch mechanism. Then the digging continues, soil is gradually removed from under the ring, as a result of which it sinks to the bottom of the shaft under its own weight. All reinforced concrete rings are installed in a similar way; the digging of the shaft stops only after it is deepened 2 meters below the beginning of the aquifer.

Creation of a water intake. Upon completion of the deepening of the shaft, all liquid is pumped out of it and the layer of dirt is removed, the bottom is leveled and covered with a layer of river sand 25 cm thick, a layer of small pebbles or crushed stone 20 cm thick is formed on top of the sand, on which a layer of coarse crushed stone of similar thickness is poured. The three-layer backfill acts as a bottom filter, through which the water is purified from the bulk of suspended impurities.
Mine waterproofing. The last stage of work inside the shaft is its waterproofing, which involves covering the seams between the reinforced concrete rings with a mixture of cement and PVA. For this, we can also use special waterproofing compounds, but this mixture is time-tested - it is inexpensive and performs its functions perfectly.
Clay castle installation. To prevent water and precipitation from penetrating into the well, a clay castle is formed. To do this, a trench with a depth of 1.5 to 2 meters is dug outside the mine, which is filled with clay. The backfill is compacted layer by layer, as a result of which the clay becomes monolithic, hardens and does not allow external water to pass through. In the future, you will be able to concrete the area around the shaft to completely eliminate the possibility of high water entering the well.

Digging a trench for clayth castle

Arrangement of the head. After completion of work with the shaft, the formation of the outer part of the well begins. It is mandatory to install a cover necessary to prevent various surface contaminants from entering the source. Also, most customers prefer to install houses that significantly improve the visual appearance of the well. We have a wide selection of decorative designs at prices ranging from 5 to 40 thousand rubles. The final touch is the installation of a gate and a chain with a bucket for lifting water, which you will receive free of charge when ordering a turnkey well.

You cannot drink water from the well in the first 2 weeks after its installation. The source must be regularly pumped out, using water for technical needs; in a few weeks it will be completely cleansed and begin to produce clean water.

HOW LONG IS THE WARRANTY?

Pump warranty - 1 year

Prices for building a well at the dacha

The average depth of wells in the Moscow region varies between 10-15 rings, with the only exception being Sergeev Posad, in which the aquifer lies at a depth of 20 meters or more. A ready-to-use source of this size, without decorative finishing, costs approximately 50-60 thousand rubles.

We calculate the total cost of the well based on the depth of the shaft. The following tariffs are currently valid:

installation of rings 1-10 – 4 thousand rubles;
installation of rings 11-15 – 4.5 thousand rubles;
installation of rings deeper than 15th - 5 thousand rubles.

The well is rightfully recognized as the optimal source for organizing an autonomous water supply. Its most attractive quality is rightfully considered to be its flow rate, which exceeds all available options. The well does not silt and does not require regular use like a well. Owners of country property may not visit their property for a long time, but the water supply will not decrease and the quality will not suffer at all. It can be cleaned without any problems. A home “digger” can even dig a well with his own hands if he has patience, at least one assistant and information about the rules for constructing a water supply source.

Starting preparation questions

It is advisable to start any work, including digging a well, with planning and thinking through the upcoming actions. A balanced assessment and preparation will eliminate unnecessary costs. In order for money and effort to be invested profitably, the future owner of a personal well needs to resolve a number of important issues.

The first question: to dig or not to dig?

It is advisable to begin the activity of constructing an individual water intake facility with an independent study of hydrogeological conditions. Naturally, we are not talking about drilling a “grid” of three to five exploration wells on a personal plot. What, in principle, can be done with a rented prefabricated drilling rig. Let's simply walk around the neighbors' properties and ask the owners:

what water source they use;
at what depth does the water “stand” in their wells or boreholes;
whether their water intake structures have sufficient flow rate.

At the same time, we will find out how much money was invested in the construction and arrangement of a well or borehole. And after collecting information, we will carefully consider the upcoming independent enterprise.

We can unconditionally rely on survey data only if all areas in the studied area are at approximately the same altitude level. If a dacha/cottage community is built in a hilly area or on a slope of a river bank, information about the hydrogeological conditions in neighboring areas will not allow you to get a real picture. In the best case, the depth of the aquifer will differ from the verbally explored figure; in the worst case, there may be no water at a depth suitable for digging a well.

Before figuring out where and how to dig a well, you should decide on the rationality of its construction. It is reasonable to dig it if the expected depth of the well shaft is within 10-15 m. In general, SNiP number 2.04.02-84 allows the depth of a mine well in loose layers to be up to 30 m. It’s just not worth investing your own efforts into digging such a deep excavation. It will be too difficult to lift the blade to the surface. It is cheaper and safer to order drillers with a drilling rig.

If not very clean water is suitable for supplying water to the bathhouse, the depth of the well can be only 5-7 m. By the way, it is not a fact that the water obtained even from an artesian well, when the excavation is deepened to 35 meters or more, will necessarily be of drinking grade. In any case, the quality and composition of groundwater must be checked by the SES. However, the upper aquifer, fed by the so-called perched water, is acceptable only for use for technical purposes. In addition, it is usually clogged with wastewater, fertilizers introduced into the upper soil layers along with precipitation, and technical fluids.

The second question: if you dig, where?

If we still prefer a well for the water supply of the bathhouse, we should decide on the location for its construction. It should be taken into account that the water intake facility:

should be removed from probable sources of pollution at a distance exceeding 25 m that is relatively safe for water quality. But the optimal distance is 50m. Sources of pollution include cesspools, landfills, latrines, etc.;
should be at least 8 m away from the foundation, preferably more. Otherwise, the flow of soil rushing into the well will gradually wash away the loose rock and weaken the soil under the foundation;
should be placed in a clean, dry, slightly elevated area.

It is advisable to locate the well at the highest possible point in the direction of groundwater flow. It is impossible to determine it by eye. You just need to get your bearings on the terrain: if the ground surface of the site has some slope, then it is better to choose a place for the well in the highest zone.

It is possible that 2-3 neighboring estates experience a similar need for a water intake structure. Then it makes sense to join forces and share financial costs. However, you need to take into account that for water supply from a well remote from the bathhouse, inspection analogues will be required. They are a narrow pit, with a depth just below the water supply branch. The bottom needs to be concreted, the walls should preferably be sheathed with boards or covered with bricks. Inspection wells are installed at every turn of the autonomous water supply system, as well as every 15 m of a straight water supply line. You can simply close them with a banal lid, decorate them with a bush of climbing roses or an interesting garden figurine.

In general, according to the beliefs of hydrogeologists, you can dig a well anywhere. There will still be water. The question is at what depth it will appear.

Third question: when to dig?

Definitely: digging a well should be done in late autumn. During the period when precipitation is minimal. At this time, the water level is close to its lowest values. In winter, of course, it is even lower, but the upper 0.5 -1.2 m of soil captured by frost will be difficult to break even with a hoe. The ground frozen to the depth of seasonal freezing will prevent the natural immersion and shrinkage of the well elements in the mine shaft. And it’s a little cold to work outside in freezing temperatures.

Summer and spring should initially be excluded from possible periods for digging. The water level reaches its peak in summer and rainy spring. You can “miss” and not dig to the required depth, calming down by receiving a sufficient volume of water. Such a well will become shallow in the autumn-winter season and will not cover the needs of the owners. In addition, if the groundwater table is as high as possible, it will be necessary to constantly pump out in order to ensure normal conditions for excavation work in the well shaft.

Well construction technology

In a simplified way, the digging technology can be described as deepening a mine opening into the ground with the simultaneous construction of walls. The walls of the well can be wooden, representing an ordinary log house, cut into a paw. Concrete rings provide a technological alternative to a log house. The construction of a well from them is much simpler and much faster, but to install the rings you will need a lift. For a shallow source of water intake, a concrete pipe is suitable, which can simply be lowered into a pre-dug pit, or a plastic corrugated analogue.

Most often, wells are now built from concrete rings. However, there are still many fans of environmentally friendly wooden water intakes. Let's look at the most popular methods and find out how to properly dig a reliable well with durable walls that do not allow surface runoff to pass through.

Option #1 - wooden well

A wooden well frame is traditionally assembled from crowns, using standard ones without residue, i.e. without angular bypasses extending beyond the outer outline. The part of the log house that is immersed in the ground and in contact with water is made from whole or split along alder, willow, and birch logs, because they do not affect, but even improve the quality of the produced water. Pine or oak timber is used to construct the above-water part because these types of wood can introduce a bitter taste. Oak is initially able to change the color of water, saturating it with tannins. But this fact can only be perceived as an initial obstacle to taking bath procedures.

To construct a log house, logs are taken with a diameter of 18 to 22 cm, the same size of plates chopped from logs is from 14 to 20 cm. It is difficult to calculate the number of crowns in advance, but you can “estimate” approximately. It depends on the depth of the planned excavation and the thickness of the material. The cracks between the rims of a well frame are not caulked, because the caulk quickly rots in water. But the underwater part of the log house does not deteriorate for 20 to 50 years, depending on the type of wood, because There is not enough oxygen under water for the development of putrefactive microorganisms. But the surface part, which is constantly in a moistened state, will need to be changed periodically during the long years of service of the wooden well.

Step-by-step instructions describing how to dig a wooden well for a bathhouse in a country house or on the territory of a personal plot:

we chop into the paw and assemble on the surface a part of the well frame from 3-7 crowns, taking into account that a rather heavy structure will need to be moved and lowered into the pit;
digging a pit approximately 1.5-2 m deep. The dimensions of the pit in plan should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the log house, so that there are no problems with its installation;
We install the finished part of the well frame into the pit, and check its horizontalness by installing a construction spirit level on the upper crown. If there is no horizontal position, we adjust the position of the structure by digging up the ground from below in the required place with a sapper shovel;
To lift the blade, we install a lifting tripod over the excavation. You can rent it or make it yourself from three logs, attaching a pulley block, gate or winch to the structure. The choice of lifting device must take into account that it will be necessary to lift not only the selected soil, but also the excavator;
We select the soil from inside the log house, first in the center of the shaft, then under the central parts of the logs. The corners of the structure at this time rest on the unselected ground;
We place pre-prepared supports-chocks under the walls, which should be equal in height;
While we are going deeper, our assistant chops and adds another 1 or 2 crowns on top. The number of crowns to be built up is determined after the fact;
We temporarily sew the frame together on the outside with a board, fasten the corners with staples or nailing down timber so that there are no distortions when lowering. We hammer nails into each crown;
Having dug the corners, we remove the supports so that the frame settles spontaneously;
We stimulate the “tight movement” of the log house in the body of the shaft by hitting the upper crown with a sledgehammer, having first placed cuttings of boards on its logs. If the structure rests against dense rock or “sits” at an angle on a boulder, we build up the crowns from below. We undermine the ground to the thickness of one log and sequentially install the elements of the crowns;
We repeat all the steps, following the given algorithm, until we “bring” the well frame to the aquifer. Digging a well most often stops in the sand. If the thickness, or thickness, of the aquifer is more than 3 meters, the base of the well should not rest against the underlying water-resistant layer so that water can freely penetrate into the water intake;
We pump out the water that appears in the well and continue to work on the front of increasing depth, without reaching the lower aquitard - clay, loam, rock;
We level the bottom of the well shaft and form a simple bottom filter by filling it with coarse sand, then gravel, and crushed stone or pebbles on top. The total backfill thickness is 40-50 cm. The bottom filter will prevent the water from becoming turbid;

It is impossible to predict in advance the flow rate and thickness of a water-saturated reservoir. If water flows in abundance, then the technology for constructing a wooden well will have to be changed somewhat. The well frame is then strengthened with collaterals - logs, the length of which is at least 50 cm longer than that of ordinary logs. Because The logs are longer than ordinary logs; stoves need to be dug in the walls of the shaft - depressions in the ground for their installation. You will need to go deeper using a box made of thick boards on the surface of the earth. The soil from the mine is removed until the work can be carried out.

According to the requirements of the above-mentioned SNiP, the above-ground part of the well should rise 80 cm above the ground. A clay castle is installed around the excavation, which will prevent surface runoff and atmospheric water from penetrating into the well. The depth of the castle, created from compacted clay or loam, is 1.5 m, width 0.5 -1.0 m.

Option #2 - a well made of concrete rings

There are no fundamental differences in the methods of constructing a wooden and concrete well. Construction is carried out in a similar lowering manner with a gradual build-up. The difference is that there is no need to cut down the log house. The work will go significantly faster and more fun. You just need to purchase the rings in advance, preferably with a tongue-and-groove type lock on the end circles. The diameter of suitable concrete rings ranges from 1m to 1.5m. The amount depends on the depth of the water intake. The lower water intake ring must have a factory filter in the wall.

A brief step-by-step instruction for those who decided to arrange a water supply for a bathhouse with water supplied from a concrete well:

we dig a mine without going deeper than 3m;
We install 2-3 rings at the bottom of the excavation, the first of which should have a filter. It is strongly recommended to treat the outer side of the concrete well shaft with a sealing compound;
For reliability, we connect the rings together with staples, bolts or pins. True, fastening rings is used mainly in cases where rings without a locking chamfer were purchased for construction. However, for your own peace of mind, you can strengthen it;
under the base of the lower ring we dig out 4 recesses into which we place bricks or lumps;
We dig in the space under the ring and lift the blade up. The concrete “pyramid” at this time rests on chocks;
we remove the supports so that the well trunk settles on its own;
We continue to go deeper in the same sequence and build up rings from above;
Finally, a filter is placed at the bottom, and a clay castle is placed around the ground part.

The described method is acceptable for the construction of shallow water intake up to 6 m. There is a seamless technology for constructing a deeper concrete well. To do this, a shoe with a cutting edge is installed on the leveled bottom of the pit, and formwork is then mounted on it for pouring the concrete mixture. Do not forget that poisonous gas can accumulate in the well shaft! Check the air in the mine with a gas analyzer every day before work. Do not work alone, wear a safety harness and a hard hat.

If the home is located near a lake or river, there are no major problems with water supply. Things are much more complicated when the site is located far from natural water sources. All that remains is to extract water from underground, and for this we need to find natural reserves that would be clean and suitable for drinking. the owners of the site do it based on the characteristics of the area. If the aquifer level is located deeper than 15 meters, then the upcoming construction of the well should be entrusted to specialists, but if the water is closer to the surface, then read this article about how to dig a well with your own hands. You may not find the process too complicated.

Dowsers search for water using the methods that our grandfathers used. But even a successful search for a source does not guarantee water quality

Choosing a place for a well

The choice of location for a well must also be approached with all responsibility.

If the area is polluted with waste or there is a major source of pollution nearby, then it is pointless to hope to get clean water from the well.

Please note the following significant factors:

Geological situation in your area. For example, if the surroundings are swampy, then it will not be possible to dig a well with drinking water, because the “overwater”, which will inevitably end up in an underground source, will bring with it all the dirt that is on the surface.
Presence of significant sources of pollution nearby. For many pollutants, the surface waterproof layer is not a barrier. They penetrate underground waters and poison them, making them unfit for consumption.
Soil characteristics and terrain. The most difficult areas to tackle are rocky terrain. It is also problematic to make a well on a mountainside. Flat terrain is best for a well.
Remoteness of the place of consumption. On the one hand, you want to place the well closer to the house in order to avoid the construction of extended communications through which water will flow into the house. On the other hand, a well cannot be placed closer than 5 meters from buildings. Such a neighborhood can negatively affect the foundation of the structure. The accumulated water can wash away the soil under the building and partially destroy the “sole”. Eliminating such consequences is not so easy.

There is another restriction, according to which sewer drains, gutters or landfills cannot be located around the well in a 50-meter sanitary zone. Otherwise, the extracted water will have specificity that you don’t need.

Well digging technology

To find out how to properly dig a well, you first need to understand what digging techniques generally exist. Professionals practice open and closed methods of digging wells. Since the differences in these techniques are fundamental, each of them deserves separate consideration.

Option #1 – open-dig

Manual installation of aquifer structures in areas with dense soil is carried out using the open method.

The walls of such a shaft will not collapse unless it is left without rings for a long time. A smooth surface indicates the presence of clay in the soil

Open technology for digging a well consists of simple and understandable steps:

digging a shaft of a certain depth (to the aquifer) is carried out immediately from beginning to end, its diameter is 10-15 cm larger than that of prepared reinforced concrete rings;
reinforced concrete rings that form the walls of the well are lowered into the resulting shaft using a winch;
the rings are carefully fastened to each other;
a gap forms between the walls of the shaft and the reinforced concrete structure assembled inside it, which must be filled with coarse sand;
the seams between each pair of rings are carefully sealed with a special sealing compound.

Obviously, it is the characteristics of the soil, which made it possible to maintain the shape of the shaft walls throughout the entire time, that are decisive for the choice of the open digging method.

Option #2 - closed digging method

If the composition of the soil is loose (crushed stone or sand), then performing work using the open method is problematic. The walls of the shaft will inevitably shift, crumble, etc. The work will have to be interrupted, the process itself will drag on and become prohibitively labor-intensive. You will have to dig a well in a closed way, which experts otherwise call “in a ring.”

For the closed digging method, it is important to start the work correctly. The rings will have to slide along the walls of the shaft under their own weight, so the size of the pit must be precise

Schematically, the closed technology of digging wells can be represented in the form of the following stages:

It is necessary to mark the location of the well, the diameter of which will correspond to the outer diameter of the reinforced concrete ring, and remove the top layer of earth. You need to go as deep as the soil will allow. Typically the depth of the pit ranges from 20 cm to 2 meters.
A hole is formed, inside which the first ring is placed. Further work will take place inside this ring, and subsequently in the resulting reinforced concrete structure.
The ring sinks lower and lower under its own weight, and the next ring, placed on the first one, increases the weight of the structure and is mounted with the previous one.
After the excavator reaches the aquifer, the last ring of the well is installed. It is not completely buried.
Insulation and sealing of the seams between the rings is carried out in exactly the same way both with the open and closed methods.

At the final stage, all the equipment necessary for the functioning of the well is installed.

Care must be taken when working with rings. Manufacturers often indicate that work must be performed using a winch or crane. Otherwise, claims for cracks and chips will not be accepted.

Advantages and disadvantages of different digging methods

The open method is attractive, first of all, for its simplicity. It is much more convenient to dig not surrounded by reinforced concrete. However, each of the digging methods has disadvantages and advantages. It is not uncommon to encounter a boulder during excavation. If this happened during open excavation, then it is easy to expand the shaft, dig around the obstacle and pull it to the surface, tying it with ropes. Now imagine how much more difficult the task becomes when the digger is in the enclosed space of the ring. The problem may turn out to be insoluble.

The boulder is one of the easily removable obstacles if digging is done in an open way, but try to deal with it while inside a reinforced concrete ring

Another trouble that can happen during work is quicksand. Quicksand is soil saturated with water that can spread. Being in an open mine, the excavator can attempt to stop the quicksand by making a rudimentary caisson from tongue-and-groove boards. Subsequently, by filling the space between the reinforced concrete structure and the shaft with soil, the quicksand can be completely isolated.

There is one more disadvantage to a closed passage. It manifests itself when “high water” appears in the mine. It sinks down along with the installed rings, after which it mixes with groundwater and spoils it. No one wants a polluted well. Moreover, it turns out that getting rid of the “overwater” in this case is very problematic. You can dig another hole along the outer surface of the rings to identify the source of the “high water”. But it is not always possible to identify and isolate it even in this case.

Material about methods of cleaning a drinking well will also be useful:

This is what water looks like in a well if high water seeps into it. To identify the source of the trouble, you essentially need to dig another well nearby

It would seem that doubts have been dispelled, and we know exactly how to dig a well in the country. Indeed, the advantages of the open method are obvious, and now let's turn to its disadvantages.

With the open digging method, the shaft has to be dug with a larger diameter than the well being constructed. The natural monolithic nature of the soil is inevitably disrupted. Between the walls of the well structure and the shaft, we place soil that differs in structure and density from what was originally there. The new soil may be subject to deformation, and the rings may be displaced relative to each other. Such movements can cause the well to collapse.

Under no circumstances should an open shaft be left without rings for a long time. The dried up walls begin to crumble, bringing the moment of collapse closer with each passing hour.

In addition, with the open method, the volume of excavation work increases significantly. And one more thing: you have to acquire special equipment to install reinforced concrete rings. You will need a cable, a hook, a block, a tripod and a winch. The process of lowering the ring is not only difficult, but also dangerous. When using a crane, it will be easier to correctly install and align the rings, but hiring special equipment is always expensive.

If, due to inexperience, the excavator underestimated the degree of soil density, the walls of the mine may crumble, nullifying all efforts. If the mine stood in its finished form without rings for more than three days, the likelihood of its collapse increases significantly. Naturally, when digging “in a ring” there is no such danger. When the rings are immersed into the shaft under their own weight, the integrity of the soil is practically not compromised. Their installation does not require additional equipment, and the likelihood of injury is reduced.

A few words about safety precautions

You can't dig a well alone. It's not even that it's physically difficult. There are dangers of a different kind. The bowels of the earth are rich in surprises. Along with water reserves, you can stumble upon an underground accumulation of gas. This can be fatal in confined mine spaces. You can reveal an invisible danger with the help of a burning splinter. A fire that goes out quickly indicates unacceptable gas contamination.

This digger would do well to listen to the instructions before putting on his helmet. He clearly doesn’t know why exactly he needs this means of protection.

A load falling on a digger's head is another obvious danger. Is it necessary to talk about the relevance of using a protective helmet in such a situation?

That’s why well-organized well digging does not imply the heroic work of a lone enthusiast, but the properly planned work of a group of like-minded people. For example, they organize forced ventilation of the mine, using at least fans and vacuum cleaners for this purpose. It’s easier to alternately dig a mine and install rings together, and it’s much more fun to celebrate the ceremonial commissioning of the facility with friends.

Next, to decide the question of who will dig the well, if hiring a team of workers is expensive for you, then invite more assistants, because digging the well must be at least three people, who will ensure a continuous digging process, replacing each other.

One person digs, putting it in a bucket, another lifts it up using a lifting device, and a third waits to replace the person who is tired.

The rope with the bucket also serves as a level to maintain the strict verticality of the shaft.

Here it is necessary to say separately about safety precautions.

A person who is digging earth in a well shaft must wear a helmet; even a small lump of earth falling from a bucket from a height of three meters can cause serious injury.

How to dig a well pit with your own hands

Before you start digging a well, you need to prepare the necessary equipment.

To work you will need: shovels, crowbar, buckets, pump for pumping out water, rope, chain, lifting device (such as a hand hoist), and, of course, concrete rings.
First, let's consider the option of digging a well manually with the installation of concrete rings. We begin to dig a hole, the diameter of which is equal to the ring, about two meters deep. Then, having installed the ring, we begin to select the earth inside the ring, while taking into account the viscosity of the earth.

If the soil is dense, we dig under the ring; if it is loose, we start from the middle of the circle. During digging, the ring lowers under its own weight.

When the ring is deep enough, place the next one on it. The whole process is repeated. When doing work, you must make sure that the rings are lowered evenly, otherwise not only distortion, but also pinching may occur; eliminating such problems is quite labor-intensive.

Immerse the ring

We seal the seams between the rings with cement-sand mortar, having previously laid tarred hemp rope, and fasten the rings themselves together with iron plates, screwing them with bolts using special metal eyes.

The depth of the well is usually about 10 meters, but this value can vary up or down depending on the topography of the area.

The depth of the shaft is determined by the following parameters: Soil moisture increases, the clay layer is penetrated, and air temperature decreases.

If water appears in the well, work does not stop, and the water is pumped out using. If there is a rapid increase in water, we stop digging. Now you should pump out the water and leave the well for 8-12 hours, then pumping out the water should be repeated and more soil should be removed until you see aquifer veins.

Making a clay castle. Outside, we dig our well to a depth of about a meter, compact it with clay at ground level, and then make a blind area.

Diagram of a properly constructed well

That's it, the well digging is complete. Now we set up a bottom filter to purify the water. It is done this way: at the bottom of the well we place small and large crushed stones of about 20 centimeters each. If the soil at the bottom of the well is very viscous, then you first need to make boards with holes for water, and then lay a bottom filter on top.

Shutdown

We complete the work by installing a water-lifting mechanism, or pump. We close the well with a lid.
The design of the above-ground part of the well, the head, is chosen by everyone according to their taste and financial capabilities. There are many options available.

You can also dig a well without rings. For the device we will need a wooden one, chopped into a paw. But this method is more labor-intensive and is chosen by lovers of ecological construction.

Wells by depth

To achieve comfortable living conditions in a country house or in a private house, every home craftsman must take care of the availability of water supply. At the same time, more and more people today rely on their own sources. These include wells and wells. The first option is definitely more effective, but in order to dig a well yourself, you need to have an accurate understanding of all stages of the work. There are stereotypes that it is impossible to dig a well on your own plot of land. In reality, this task is achievable if everything is done correctly and consistently.

When can you dig a well?

If you decide to build a well on your site yourself, you should choose the right time to complete this task. If specialized companies with good equipment can carry out this procedure at any time, then you definitely cannot dig a well in winter with improvised means.

You should wait for optimal weather conditions, that is, drought. While it rains, you can prepare all the necessary equipment and materials. The groundwater level is at its lowest, usually from late summer to early autumn. Therefore, it is best to plan to dig a well in August-September.

The first video is about how you can dig a well yourself, without relying on friends and acquaintances.

In this case, you do not need to hire a team of professionals.

How deep should a well be dug?

The depth of the future well depends on the chosen place for digging. For example, if you need a well near a river, then it will be easier to get to the water. At the same time, it is almost impossible to independently determine where to start work so that the waters are closer without special equipment. Specialists with experience working with soil can help you with this. You can also consult your neighbors. If they have a well on the property, they will be able to tell you what depth is optimal.

A well for a summer residence should be located at least thirty meters away from toilets, sewers, and other groundwater pollutants. The optimal depth of the well is considered to be 5-10 meters. Although in rare cases it can even reach 30-40 meters. Typically, the appearance of black clay indicates that you are approaching a water vein.

How to determine whether the water in a well is suitable for drinking

In order to understand what kind of water is available on your site, you should do geological exploration of the area. If there are already communication networks in the yard, then such data probably already exists. If not, you can again ask neighbors who have a well. They will be able to tell you where the waters suitable for drinking are concentrated.

You can check your water quality by contacting your local SES. As for more professional methods, these include electro-vertical sounding. This technology allows you to correctly determine what water accumulates underground. But, as practice shows, one method is not enough for a 100% result. The most correct result can be obtained only in combination with other methods.

Safety precautions

A few words about safety precautions. Our health is everything - we can’t dig a well without it))

It should be understood that digging a well is a complex process that requires care from the performer. For this reason, due attention should be paid to safety precautions. To avoid risks, just follow a few simple rules:

First of all, you need to wear a helmet when working. After all, at any moment a handful of earth or a stone can fall on a person’s head.
While digging a hole, you should periodically check the integrity of the rope.
It is recommended to periodically inspect fastening systems and containers designed for raising soil.
You can stay in the mine for a limited amount of time.
It should be borne in mind that dampness and cold have a negative impact on health.

Choosing a location for a well

The correct choice of place to dig it is of great importance in constructing a well yourself. If the area is polluted or there is a source of any waste nearby, you will not be able to get good water from the well. For this reason, you must accurately study the geological condition of the soil.

It should be taken into account that many sources of pollution easily penetrate not only into the surface layer, but also into groundwater. Also, you should not focus on areas of land where rocky soil is observed. Many home craftsmen, in search of a source of drinking water, rely on ancient methods. In particular, they are trying to detect veins by the presence of vegetation. However, this method is not reliable. It is also problematic to dig a well on slopes. The best option is clean, flat terrain.

What technologies can you use to dig a well?

If there is dense soil on your site, then the installation of structures such as a well is carried out using the open method. This is due to the fact that the walls of the mine will not collapse, since the soil includes clay deposits. The open method of constructing a well means the following work plan:

Digging a mine;
Installation of reinforced concrete rings;
Fastening the rings;
Elimination of cracks;

We will talk in detail about each stage from the above scheme of work later. Thus, the open method of digging a hole is effective in cases where nothing affects the deformation of the walls of the shaft.
The closed method of constructing a well for a summer residence is typical for loose soil.

When working with sandy soil, usually the walls of the shaft constantly crumble and shift. For this reason, work will have to be interrupted, which can lead to lengthy installation of the well rings. To get a good result in this case, you need to start digging the hole correctly. This method involves sliding rings along the walls of the shaft using their own weight.
In other words, the rings will begin to fall down on their own. And we need to dig out from under them. Before you start digging a hole, you must mark the exact location of the future rings. The mark must strictly correspond to the outer diameter of the structures. After this, the top layer of soil is removed. As a rule, for the first ring a hole is dug up to two meters deep.
Then the ring is mounted inside, and all further work is carried out inside the product. Under its own weight, it should sink lower on its own. After each meter dug, a second one is installed on top of one ring. The last ring is installed after the aquifer appears.

There is no need to completely bury the last element of the structure. Also, to achieve a full result, you will need to use sealed products. The process of insulating seams in this case is no different from the above. But we’ll talk about the details of this stage of work later.

Well design

Regardless of the chosen digging method, all wells have the same design features. The lower part of any well should be equipped with a bottom filter, which is designed to purify drinking water. This structural component consists of three layers of gravel and crushed stone. The first layers, as a rule, are represented by a fine fraction. The middle layer is five times larger.

The last layer is the large size fraction. In some cases, the filter can be supplemented with a plank floor. Such measures are taken when the soil at the bottom of the well is too viscous. There are rings on top of the filter. Using them is the easiest way to create a mine. It can also be made of brick, concrete and stone.

The upper part of the structure is represented by the head. The upper part of the well can be made in the form of a house, a mill or any other object. This will give the well an aesthetic appearance. You should ensure that the storehouse is equipped with a special lid. Safety precautions require that the well be closed at all times. Otherwise, foreign objects, pollutants, rainwater may get in there, and someone may get hurt due to their carelessness.

Necessary materials and tools for digging a well

Before you start building a well, you can estimate in advance how much this task will cost you. To do this, you need to calculate the price of all the necessary materials and tools. For work you will need the following building materials:

Crushed stone;
Gravel;
Concrete rings;
Wooden boards;
Bars;
Nails,
Bolts;
Sealant;
Cement;
Sand;
Staples;
Seam putty;

The amount of resources required for work depends directly on the location and depth of the well. As for the tools that will be useful for the job, it also all depends on the placement of the well and its depth. But in any case, to work you will have to use:

Tripod;
Shovels;
Ladder or ropes;
Buckets;
Drill;
Durable chains;
Cart.

Beginning of work

It should be noted that to make a well you will need the help of several comrades. This is due to the fact that concrete rings are difficult to install independently, even with special equipment. This is directly related to their heavy weight. But in any case, the help of friends will cost much less than the services of companies that provide drilling and construction services.

Advice from professionals on proper well digging, a large number of important nuances that should be followed

As already stated, work on creating a well on your site begins with calculations and determining the location for digging.
If you have already collected all the necessary information, you should start marking.

marking the future well - the beginning of the beginning

After this, you need to start digging holes.
It is necessary to dig to such a depth that the first ring, regardless of the type of installation (open or closed), does not go completely into the ground.
As you already understand, the work is described using a closed installation method, due to the fact that it is much more common.
After installing the first ring, there should be a protrusion of 10 centimeters. You can transport the ring into the dug hole using a cart. It should be the same height as the ledge. That is 10 centimeters. You must understand that even the installation of the first ring determines the quality of the future well. For this reason, it is necessary to carefully check its verticality. If the first ring is slightly distorted, further work may not go according to plan.

Then the second concrete ring is installed. It is connected using special brackets.

For two rings you will need at least three staples. Considering that the operating principle of the closed well installation method is to immerse the rings under their own pressure, it is necessary to dig a hole in the center of the rings.
After installing the first two products, the structure should be deepened by 80 centimeters.
After this, the rings are dug in a circle.
If you are forced to work with soft soil, it must be removed from the middle of the ring. If we are talking about hard ground, then first you need to remove the soil under the rings. This will allow you to get rid of obstacles that may interfere with the immersion of the structure.
After eliminating unnecessary soil and interference, you can work in standard mode, removing soil from the middle.
To connect rings on soft ground, experts recommend using staples. Despite the existence of more modern designs - rings with locks, the above option is considered more optimal. This is due to the fact that rings with locks are not able to protect the rings from deformation in soft ground in winter. They start to move. The brackets provide for this process and do not allow the structure to move.
As you dig a hole, it is necessary to process the joints of the strung rings. To do this, a special sealant is used and a tarred hemp rope is installed. Additionally, it can be sealed using cement mortar. The walls of the shaft should be built up until water is visible.

After sealing the rings and sealing the cracks, the sides must be compacted with clay. Additionally, you can sprinkle with earth. This will protect the well from rainwater, pollutants and other unnecessary elements.

At the last stage of work, the upper part of the well is made. Traditionally, wood is used to make it. The ground part can be made in the form of a house. In some cases, home craftsmen choose concrete or brick. In this case, the upper part of the ring can be supplemented with flowerpots or some other architectural elements. You should also create a cover made of concrete or wood. This is necessary for safety reasons.

Cleaning a well from dirty water

Even if your well is well protected, it needs to be cleaned periodically (preferably once every six months - regarding the filter itself).