How to grow begonia from a bulb. Tuberous begonia

Planting and caring for homemade tuberous begonias... All tuberous begonias can be grown from tubers planted in spring (January to May) in boxes with moist peat. The rounded side should be immersed in the soil - this is where the roots will come from; the concave, flattened side faces upward. The tuber goes halfway into the ground, its upper part remains above the surface of the earth: this makes it easier for young shoots to rise. If your tuber doesn’t want to wake up, think about it - maybe it was planted “upside down”?

The boxes are kept at a temperature of 15-20 degrees, and when the sprouts reach 5 cm in height, they are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 12 cm, deepening the entire tuber into the ground, or simply sprinkling it with earth. A little later, they should be transplanted into pots with a diameter of 20 cm. Intensive growth begins, the begonia leaves will unfold one after another, and many buds will appear. The entire begonia will be strewn with flowers and it will bloom for quite a long time - all summer and autumn. After the end of flowering, the begonia leaves fall off and a period of rest begins for the plant: watering is stopped, the stems are cut, the tubers are removed from the ground and stored in peat. You can leave the tubers in the pot and also store them in a dry and cool place, preventing it from freezing.

Growing conditions and care for tuberous begonia

In order for the plant to be healthy and delight us with gorgeous flowering, it needs careful care. Begonia tubers can be planted from February to May in a fresh nutrient mixture, but the upper part of the tuber cannot be covered with soil (see planting). Place it in a bright place, begin to water the plant sparingly, gradually increasing the amount of water as the shoots grow.

- Lighting for begonias.
Tuberous begonias love warm, sunny places without direct sunlight or bright, indirect light. Grows and blooms well in slightly shaded areas with a constant flow of fresh air. Be sure to make a “light” mark and do not change the position of the pots in relation to the light, otherwise the buds will fall off... In the garden, begonia will feel good in the shade under trees or taller plants

Sudden changes in light are harmful to begonias. Let’s say if you germinated it on the western window, and then moved the plant to the southern balcony, then burns will definitely appear on the leaves. On dark northern window sills, begonia blooms rarely and sparsely, but on northern balconies it blooms beautifully, the main thing is not to overwater the plant.

How to properly water tuberous begonias

In summer, tuberous begonias are watered abundantly, especially during the flowering period (preferably with warm, settled water), and also fed with mineral fertilizers. Begonia's roots are superficial, delicate and very small, so when watering, you should avoid waterlogging and make sure that water does not get on the leaves. Two or three times a week you need to spray the air around the plant; direct contact with water on the leaves and flowers is undesirable, this can cause rot of the flowers, spots on the leaves, and powdery mildew. The ovaries must be cut off in a timely manner.

It is necessary to lightly dry the earthen clod between waterings. Particular attention should be paid to watering during the active growing season. After the end of the flowering period, watering is gradually reduced, the above-ground part of the plant is cut off and the pot with tubers is placed in a cool, dry place with a temperature of about 10 degrees and stored until spring.

On very hot days, flower pots must be cooled: placed in damp peat, sawdust or a tray with wet pebbles (peat or pebbles must be constantly wet). Plants will thank you if you regularly spray the air around them.

- Soil and fertilizing.
She needs regular complex mineral supplements from May to October (once every two weeks), which alternate with organic supplements. Begonia grows and blooms successfully only in fertile, non-calcareous soil rich in organic matter. Soil for begonias can be purchased in specialized stores. For planting, ordinary flower soil can be mixed with sand. The pot for planting should be wide, but not necessarily deep, since the root system of the plant is quite superficial.

Propagation of tuberous begonia

In cases where it is necessary to preserve varietal characteristics, tuberous begonias have to be propagated by seeds, although this is a more troublesome task. Typically, tuberous begonias are propagated using tubers with small sprouts, but it is better to purchase new ones. A begonia tuber can live 5-6 years. Before planting, a dense round tuber (two to three years old) is divided into parts so that each part has 1-2 developed buds. The cuttings are sprinkled with coal or ash and the “clippings” are planted in the soil. You should not water the plants heavily during this period.

Can be propagated by cuttings. In April-May, a strong shoot up to 10 cm long is cut off, placed in a mixture of sand and peat, and watered occasionally. Often cuttings rot from excess moisture and do not take root well. It’s easier to buy tubers in a specialized store, especially since the range of begonias on sale is very large.

Potted begonias are usually purchased with flowers, although some can be grown from seeds. In spring you can buy non-flowering tuberous plants in pots. They are planted in open ground when the danger of return frosts has passed. Tuberous begonia - plant height 20-25 cm - when planting, the distance between plants is 30 cm. Multiflorous begonia - plant height 25 cm - distance between plants 25 cm. Drooping tuberous begonia - stem length 25-50 cm - distance between plants 25 cm.

How to preserve a begonia tuber in winter

In their homeland, tuberous begonias tolerate seasonal climate changes well. But in our conditions they need a period of rest. Therefore, after the first frost, the plant is dug up and, together with a lump of earth or in pots, transferred to the house. Watering almost stops. After about a month, the above-ground part of the plant dies, after which the tubers are taken out of the ground and placed in boxes, sprinkled with sawdust. In this form, begonias are stored in the basement (or on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator at +1-10 °C) until spring. The substrate is wetted from time to time.

Difficulties in growing tuberous begonia

If you find brown or black dry spots on the begonia leaves, this is sunburn. Try to choose a place for the plant where there is no access to direct sunlight.
If the leaves turn yellow, but the sun could not burn, then perhaps the plant lacks moisture and nutrients, or, conversely, the plant is “flooded” and does not have enough light.
Begonia leaves curl and dry out - the air around the plant is too dry and the temperature is too high. Buds fall off - dry air and excessive watering.
If you notice that the plant is rotting, stop watering it abundantly, remove the rotten parts of the plant, carefully remove the top layer of soil from the top of the tuber and add fresh soil.
It should be borne in mind that with excess moisture, there is a risk of rotting roots and shoots, and the development of powdery mildew, which is extremely difficult to combat, is possible.

Tuberous begonia is a herbaceous perennial plant that forms a tuber due to the growth of part of the stem (the area between the attachment of the cotyledons and the root collar). This is the main feature of tuberous begonia, and its main advantage is its very beautiful flowering.

Description

In the middle of the 19th century. began selling a begonia hybrid created from 2 wild species, the origin of which was Bolivia. Next, different species were crossed with it, the homelands of which were Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia and Chile. The modern assortment was created on the basis of at least 7 species. Terry forms were first developed by breeder Louis Van Goutte in Belgium. This state is still called the largest European producer today. The country has allocated 400 hectares for these plants, and about 100 million tubers are produced annually.

In gardening, varieties are divided into large-flowered, medium-flowered and small-flowered.

Popular varieties of large-flowered form:

Harlequin - edged, grows up to 24 cm, blooms yellow with a red edge, flower diameter 11.5 cm;
Bud de Rose - pink-shaped, grows up to 24.5 cm, blooms with a pink tint, flower diameter 18 cm;
Dak Red - peony-shaped, grow up to 15 cm, dark red flower, diameter 10 cm.
Popular varieties of medium-flowered form:
Multiflora maxima Wye t - grows about 16.5 cm, the flower is white, 10 cm in diameter;
Switzerland - height 15.5 cm, dark red flower, 6 cm in diameter;
Tasso - height 15.5 cm, flower of a rich red hue, diameter 6 cm.
Popular small-flowered varieties:
Ami Jean Bard - height 11.5 cm, orange flower, 3 cm in diameter;
La Madelon - height 14.5 cm, pink flower, diameter 4 cm;
Frau Helene Grams - height 11.5 cm, orange-yellow flower, 3 cm in diameter.

Tuberous begonia is characterized by its ability to purify the air in the house and kill harmful microorganisms. In group planting, plant activity increases. In folk medicine, infusions are prepared that take:

elderly people;
for colds;
bad mood.

Tuberous begonia, growing and blooming well, brings happiness. If the plant withers, this is a signal about the deterioration of the situation in the house or about the appearance of ill-wishers.

How to care for begonia at home?

Before planting, the site is prepared. The soil must be water and breathable. Clayey, heavy soils are not suitable. They can be improved by adding sand and peat. Organic fertilizers are applied to sandy soils with low fertility.

The plant is characterized by sensitivity to intense sunlight. It will bloom beautifully in partial shade. But if the planting site is heavily shaded, then the shoots become elongated, the tuberous begonia sheds its leaves, and the formation of flowers will not occur or there will be only a few of them. The shoots of the bushes are very delicate and can be damaged by the wind, so the plantings must be protected from strong winds.

Before planting the plants, the soil needs to be watered for a couple of days. Throughout the entire period of growth and development of tuberous begonia, it is necessary to ensure regular watering. But if the soil is waterlogged, the leaves will begin to fall. A very important point is the arrangement of drainage, which will ensure prompt removal of excess water.

Tuberous begonia is a non-winter-hardy plant; low temperatures easily damage it. Therefore, they are planted in the ground at the end of spring or early summer.

The plant is planted with formed leaves and buds. Before planting, the tubers are kept in boxes in an earthen substrate for 2.5 months (sprouts should appear). Before this, they are disinfected - kept for about 2 hours in a 0.06% solution of potassium permanganate or 0.2% solution of foundationazole. Place in boxes at a distance of 11-12 cm so that there is enough space for the formation of the root system. The tubers are covered with earthen mixture, the tops are left on the surface. Then they need to be watered evenly and left in a bright place at a temperature of 18-20°C.

Water as it dries. From the third week of May, for hardening, you need to reduce the intensity of watering and increase the frequency of ventilation. When the seedlings grow to 12 cm and the roots become well developed, they are transplanted to a permanent site.

Tuberous begonia is planted in open ground, maintaining a distance of 18-20 cm between neighboring plants. Plants are watered regularly, avoiding waterlogging of the soil. After watering, the soil is loosened and fed with fertilizers every 2 weeks.

When the plant grows to 7 cm, the top is trimmed to stimulate the formation of side shoots.

After the latter grow to 11-12 cm, their tops are cut off to form additional branches. Next, the shape of the bush can be slightly adjusted, excessively long branches can be trimmed or removed. To awaken dormant buds, pinch off the top of the bush and cut off the branches growing at the bottom of the stem.

Diseases and pests: treatment methods

Tuberous begonia is a delicate and capricious plant that needs careful care and attention. If grown improperly, the plant can be damaged by diseases and pests.

Pests:

leaf nematode - damages young shoots, buds and leaf apparatus, the plant dies. The bushes are treated with 0.05-0.2% heterophos;
greenhouse aphid - damages young shoots, flowers and leaf apparatus, feeds on sap. In a greenhouse, the reproduction process takes place year-round. The bushes are treated with a 2-4% soap solution (200-350 g of laundry soap per 10 liters of water), tobacco infusion (100 g infused in warm water for 48 hours, filtered, diluted 2 times with water), and insecticide solutions.

Diseases:

powdery mildew - the entire above-ground part of the bush suffers. Individual spots with a white coating merge, a powdery coating forms, and the leaves dry out. Tuberous begonia is treated with fungicides, a solution of colloidal sulfur (0.3-0.5%), copper-soap solution (20 g of soap and 2 g of copper sulfate are dissolved in 1 liter of water);
gray mold – the disease is caused by a fungal pathogen. Spots with a gray coating form on the plant, then they transform into brown rot. The bushes are treated with fungicides, Bordeaux mixture (1%), copper-soap solution (20 g of soap and 2 g of copper sulfate are dissolved in 1 liter of water).

What to do with tuberous begonia in the fall?

In autumn, initial frosts do not harm the tubers, so tuberous begonia is dug up after the leaves have fallen. A significant increase in tubers occurs at the end of the growing season due to the accumulated supply of nutrients and the establishment of renewal points.

In the house, the potted plant will bloom almost until the end of autumn. In October, the intensity of watering is reduced. After flowering is completed, the shoots are cut off and the tubers remain in dry soil or sand at a temperature of 8-10°C. In March - April they are transplanted into fresh soil mixture and watered regularly. When sprouts appear, the pots are placed in the light. If a large number of shoots are formed, they are partially used for cuttings, leaving 1-2 of the best shoots.

How to store tuberous begonia in winter?

After digging, the tubers are carefully cleaned of soil and dried with ventilation. After 2 weeks, the remaining shoots are removed, and the well-dried tubers are placed tightly in a box in one layer, sprinkled with dry sand or peat, and stored at 11-12°C.

How to propagate tuberous begonia?

There are 3 methods of reproduction:

seeds;
tubers;
cuttings.

The seed propagation method has several advantages. During the year we receive:

conditioned tubers;
flowering plants.

Seeds are sown in late December - early February. The earthen substrate is characterized by good moisture capacity and light structure. Tuberous begonia seeds are not embedded in the substrate, they are sprayed with water, covered with glass and kept at a temperature of 25-27°C. Crops must be sprayed regularly, but the seedlings must not be exposed to drops condensed from inside the glass. The glass must be raised for ventilation and moisture drainage. After the seeds have sprouted (2 weeks after sowing), the temperature must be lowered to 18°C. After another 2 weeks, the glasses are removed. In December - January, crops need to be illuminated for 5 hours in the morning and evening; in February - March, additional illumination time is reduced.

The dive is carried out twice:

when the plants reach the 2-3 leaf phase, the distance between neighbors should be 2-2.5 cm;
after 30 days, when the plants become crowded. The distance between seedlings is 5-10 cm.
Once every 14 days, seedlings are fed with a fertilizer solution. When it is very sunny, the plants need to be shaded. It is also necessary to harden them - leave them in the open air. After 1.5 months, the seedlings can be planted.

The maximum increase in tubers occurs in September-October. When sown in December-January and appropriate care at the end of the growing season, they grow up to 1.5 cm in diameter.

The method of propagation by cuttings has the advantage that the varietal characteristics of the plant are completely preserved. The disadvantage of the method is a decrease in the yield of planting material. Royal tubers should be placed in boxes with soil mixture, crushed with humus and moistened. When the shoots grow to 6 cm, they are carefully broken out and planted in boxes filled with a sand-humus mixture. When it is very hot and sunny, the seedlings are shaded and the soil is regularly moistened.

After about 20 days, roots form. Plants are transplanted into boxes, the distance from each other should be 10 cm. Placed in a well-lit place, at a temperature of 21-22°C. Subsequently, the seedlings are fed with fertilizers and watered. In the fall, they are transported to a greenhouse for growing and kept until November, reducing the intensity of watering.

Then the tubers are processed and stored for winter.

Tuberous begonia can also be propagated by stem cuttings. In February - March, side shoots should be cut off from a potted plant, placed in a container of water or planted in a pot and covered with a glass container. After the formation of the root system, the seedlings dive.

As a rule, 5-10 buds sprout on good tubers - this depends on their age and size.

They can be cut into pieces with 1-2 shoots. Before planting, the cut must be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Use in landscape design

Upright plants are planted in above-ground containers or flower beds. They look great against the background of a decorative “wall”, in a white plastic flowerpot with a back wall, against a background of gray crushed stone or painted pebbles.

The beauty of blooming tuberous begonia will not leave anyone indifferent; it will improve the mood of every person. It is necessary to care for the plant carefully and painstakingly, but in gratitude you will receive beautiful flowering bushes. If you wish, you can arrange a magnificent flowering garden on your windowsill.

Tuberous begonias are amazingly beautiful. They are similar to roses and come in a wide variety of colors. They are grown from tubers, which are planted in early spring. Many gardeners love begonias because, unlike many other flowering plants, begonias prefer shady locations rather than sunny ones. Sprouted begonia tubers easily take root in a variety of climatic conditions

Steps

Preparing begonia tubers

Purchase tubers by mid-winter. Since begonias need to be planted in early spring, it is best to purchase tubers in mid-winter. There are hundreds of different species, but regardless of this, all begonias require the same care. To determine which type of begonia you like best, you can look through a catalog at a seed store or online.

About a month before the last frost, pot your begonias and keep them indoors. In any climate where temperatures are quite low and frosts occur, begonias should be started indoors. If you live in a tropical climate where frost does not occur, you can plant begonias directly into the soil.

If you live in an area where summers are usually very hot, start growing begonias early so that by the time the heat sets in, they are already well established in the soil.

Plant begonias in small pots or containers. Buy a quality bud for growing flowers in pots that has good drainage properties. Moisten the soil by placing it in a bucket and stirring, adding water until it is moist but not soggy. Place the soil in the pot or box you plan to use to prepare your begonias for planting. Plant begonia tubers with the hollow (concave) side up at a distance of 7-8 cm. Cover them with 1.2 cm of soil.

Place the boxes or pots on a sunny windowsill and wait for the begonias to sprout. The tubers require bright sunlight, but it should not be direct as the begonias may overheat. Keep the soil moist but not soggy for the next month or so. Tubers usually germinate within two to four weeks. They can then be planted in the ground if frost is no longer expected.

Water your begonias if the soil seems dry. Run your finger across the soil to check the soil's moisture. If it is dry and dusty, water the begonias thoroughly. Try not to water the tops of the tubers where the leaves and stems form, as this may promote the development of mold. As the stems grow, water the begonias at the base.
- Begonias growing in pots should be watered until water flows out of the drainage holes. Remember to empty any water that has accumulated in the pans.
- For larger, brighter flowers, you can fertilize your begonias. This should be done every week using fertilizer for flowering plants. In this case, you must carefully follow the instructions on the packaging of the product.
Remove dried flowers and leaves regularly. Begonias bloom throughout the growing season, so it is recommended to periodically check the plants and pinch off dry or wilted flowers - this will help the plant redirect its strength and energy to the appearance of new flowers.

If necessary, tie up the plant. Tall varieties of begonias can bend and bend, which can lead to the death of individual branches or the entire plant. Place a bamboo or other stick in the ground next to the plant, some distance from the trunk. Carefully tie the plant to the stick using twine or a narrow piece of fabric. As the begonia grows, you can tie it up additionally so that the stick serves as a reliable support.

Growing begonias as perennials

Gradually reduce watering. As autumn approaches, start watering your begonias less and less, and in October, stop watering them altogether. This will help the begonia prepare for the winter “rest”. This can be done both with begonias planted in the garden in open ground and with begonias in pots.

If you live in a hot climate, forced dormancy for begonias is not necessary, since the tubers can survive the winter outside. Just prune the begonias closer to winter - in early spring they will begin to grow again.

Dig up the tubers. Using a shovel, dig up the begonia tubers, leaving a small clump of soil around. Place them in a sunny window indoors for a week to dry the tubers. Store begonia tubers in open flat boxes. Place peat or sand on the bottom of the box. For the winter, such boxes with begonia tubers must be placed in a cool, dry place.
- Digging the tubers out of the ground is not necessary if you live in a warm climate where the soil never freezes.
Replant tubers in early spring. Replant the begonia tubers in the same way as you did before, germinating them indoors in advance, and then plant them in open ground when the soil has thawed.

Begonia tubers should become larger every year. However, begonias are generally short-lived and the tubers will only remain good for a few years.
Dig up begonia tubers or move pots indoors before they freeze or in late fall. Trim the begonia stems and store the tubers in peat or in a pot in a dry, dark, dry place until next spring when you can plant them again as above.
At the end of the growing season, begonia tubers need to rest; they will not bloom indoors in winter. Even plants in hot climates need to rest for several months.
When purchasing, choose larger tubers if possible. Begonias grown from small tubers usually bloom in the first year, but larger ones produce stronger and more beautiful plants.

Large and bright flowers of tuberous begonia can become a worthy decoration for any garden or balcony. Abundant flowering at home continues from May to October. In decorative floriculture, several types of begonias are used (, etc.), but this article discusses Begonia tuberous. How to plant this plant in open ground and at home - more on that in the article below.

How to choose a begonia tuber?

Begonia tubers go on sale in most garden centers by the end of January. In order to choose the right tuber, inspect it: it should have a dark brown uniform cover without light spots. If the tuber has mold, other suspicious spots or visible damage, you should not take it.

The size of the tuber must be at least 4 cm in diameter. note that convex part the tuber is its bottom - bottom. On There is a depression in the upper part of the nodule, and it is there that the awakened ones should be looked for kidneys.

ON THE PICTURE:Typically, the size of the tuber depends on the variety. However, too large ones may be old and hollow - they should not be chosen. Young plants bloom much better and are less susceptible to diseases.

When choosing a tuber, it is important to check its weight - too light ones will not work. Planting a begonia tuber that has the optimal weight and size will result in healthy and beautiful plants. A light tuber may be too dry, germinate late, or not sprout at all!

In January and early February, most tubers are still dormant, so you need to choose them with special care, especially if you don’t know how to wake up begonia tubers after winter. Tubers purchased at the end of February and March should have awakening buds.

ON THE PICTURE:Buds with a mauve tint are characteristic of varieties with red and orange flowers. White and pale pink varieties have greenish-white eyes.

It is not advisable to purchase tubers with already grown shoots (stems).

ON THE PICTURE:It may seem that a tuber with a regrown stem will develop faster. However, such a sprout appeared in unsuitable conditions and subsequently often dies. Give preference to tubers that are just beginning to wake up.

So, in your basket you have a healthy and large tuberous begonia. Planting and caring for a young plant begins in February.

If you purchased the tuber too early, you can keep it in the refrigerator for a while, wrapping it in several layers of newspaper.

Planting a begonia tuber - basic steps

Treatment with drugs

Immediately before planting begonia tubers begins, they should be soaked in a growth stimulator (Epin, Zircon, Stimul, etc.) according to the instructions. In order to protect them from rotting in the future, treat the tubers with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide ("", "", "", etc.). These events are generally important for all corms, and tuberous begonia is no exception (you can see how to plant other corms in our “Encyclopedia”).

After processing, the tubers can be laid out in rows in trays filled with a damp substrate (peat, sand, cotton cloth, table napkins, toilet paper), covered with film and placed in a warm place for rooting. Remember to ventilate containers and maintain humidity. There are tubers that take quite a long time to germinate. Be patient.

Planting tuberous begonia at home in separate bowls should be planned for March or the end of February, when the nodules give noticeable roots.

ON THE PICTURE: If you get a too “shaggy” tuber, remove some of the old roots and dried soil before planting. It will be easier for young roots to break through.

Soil for planting begonias

After germination, we plant begonia tubers in specialized soil intended specifically for begonias.

You can try making the mixture yourself. The proportions are as follows: two parts leaf soil, one humus, one peat, one part sand (2:1:1:1). The plant prefers fertile soil, the reaction of which is slightly acidic.

Choosing a container for planting begonias

Planting tuberous begonia at home begins with choosing a container that best meets the requirements of the plant. For planting, it is worth taking a wide but shallow pot - the root system of the plant is superficial, the roots will not go deep, but there should be enough space in breadth. Select a container of at least three liters. There must be good drainage.

If you are going to transfer begonia to the garden in the future, you can plant it in small liter pots with a diameter of 12 cm.

Let's start planting tuberous begonia

Manufacturers often recommend planting begonia as a tuber to a depth of 5 cm. However, it will be better if you plant it so that the buds are visible. To do this, a small depression is made in well-moistened soil, and then the tuber itself is placed into it and slightly pressed.

ON THE PICTURE: When planting, the edges of the begonia tuber should rise above the soil surface by approximately 0.5-1 cm.

You need to add soil as shoots appear and grow.

Caring for tuberous begonia after planting

After planting begonia tubers has been completed, in pots or on a light windowsill, but not in direct sunlight. Watering is done sparingly so as not to soak the tubers themselves. They also cannot tolerate dry soil. Watering can be increased when leaves appear on the planted tuberous begonia, but nevertheless, it should be watered moderately and preferably in a tray.

Figuring out how to plant a begonia tuber correctly is only half the battle (albeit quite important). Next, the plant needs to be provided with proper care throughout the growing season. The temperature should be +16–18°C, and the air should be sufficiently humid (40–50%).

The influx of fresh air rich in carbon dioxide will accelerate the growth of begonias. At the same time, do not forget to shade them from the bright sun, to which young plants are very sensitive.

ON THE PICTURE: Arrange the tubers so that there is enough space between them for watering. When watering from above, moisten the soil directly; under no circumstances should water get into the recess on the tuber!

How to feed tuberous begonia?

Tuberous begonias are responsive to feeding. But they begin to feed the plants only after the shoots begin to grow and the tuber is completely covered.

The first fertilizing is done with fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. for healthy leaf growth (for example, “Agricola” for decorative foliage or “Azofoska”).
The begonia is fertilized a second time in the budding phase with complex mineral fertilizer.

Tuberous begonia: how to plant plants in the ground in the garden?

Begonia is very thermophilic, so wait until the end of spring frosts (late May - early June). Pre-harden off the plant by placing the pots in the shade outdoors during the daytime. During hardening, tuberous begonia leaves may fall off (this is normal).

To increase immunity during the adaptation period, young plants can be treated with Epin or Immunocytophyte.

ON THE PICTURE:Young shoots of tuberous begonia grow quite quickly in the first days. However, wait until the air and soil warm up before planting in open ground.

Tuberous begonia: planting and care after planting

If you plan to plant begonia in a flowerbed, then choose a semi-shaded place for it with drained, light and fertile soil. But keep in mind: it is much more convenient to provide the necessary care and select suitable soil for plants planted in separate containers. Therefore, even as a garden decoration, it is better to keep begonia in a container culture.

The planting distance is determined depending on the variety: 15x15 cm, 20x20 cm or 30x30 cm. After planting the begonia, mulch the soil around the tuber and sprinkle it with ash.

If you follow these simple steps for planting and caring for a young tuberous begonia, it will bloom throughout the second half of summer and early autumn. Good luck!

Tuberous begonia is a favorite flower of many women who like to do floriculture at home. This luxurious plant gives a surprisingly festive look to the balcony almost all year round. I couldn’t resist this flower either, as a result of which 7 species of tuberous begonia now permanently live on my balcony.

Among them there are begonias of white, cream, red, pink, orange, with jagged and smooth edges, there is one large-flowered begonia and begonia with small double flowers (by the way, my favorite).

A neighbor taught me how to plant tuberous begonia. She taught me many secrets to successful planting which greatly helped me get my balcony garden to where it is today.

How to plant tuberous begonia at home

Now in stores there is a huge selection of planting material for fans of tuberous begonia. Various and numerous hybrids with very beautiful and bright colors and spectacular leaves can delight us not only at home, but in garden plots.

To find out how to plant tuberous begonia That’s right, you need to read a lot of literature and talk to several experienced gardeners. But this is not a guarantee of an excellent result on the first try. When buying tubers, pay attention to the size and type of the treasured balls. Their diameter should be at least 3 cm, and for ampelous small-flowered begonia it is even smaller. Well-cleaned tubers should be smooth and dense at the top. You probably know that the tubers of this plant have an upper and lower part. On the upper part (it is flatter or even concave) there are buds, which are very similar to tubercles and irregularities. The lower part of the tuber is smoother, slightly convex. Roots will form on the lower part after planting.

Before planting tuberous begonia, I recommend cutting very large tubers into 2 or 4 pieces so that each piece has approximately 3 or 4 buds. I usually sprinkle the cut area with charcoal powder.

Since it is impossible to plant tuberous begonia without preparation, I will describe what needs to be done so that the flower quickly takes root and sprouts. Before planting, begonia tubers need to be lightly cleared of dead roots. You can even treat each tuber with a fungicide, for example, hold it for 30 minutes in a solution of the drug “Maxim” or in a dark pink solution of the well-known potassium permanganate. To plant begonia tubers, I use loose and nutritious substrates. It is best to use a ready-made substrate, which can be purchased at the store. If desired, you can add sand or even vermiculite to the finished substrate.

How to plant tuberous begonia without the right pot? I always choose a pot that is not very deep and not very wide, but it should not be low. Ideally, there would be 3-4 centimeters from the tuber to the edge of the pot. At the bottom of the pot, you must pour drainage (this can be pebbles or expanded clay) to 1/3 of the height of the pot. Then pour the substrate almost to the very top of the pot, and make a small depression (about 2 cm) in the middle of the substrate. You need to pour a little sand into the hole and place the tuber in it. You need to lay it with the concave side up and the convex (that is, smooth side) down. After this, the tuber is carefully sprinkled. It is important to mention that, for example, I do not pour the substrate into the very middle of the tuber, as sometimes problems arise with germination, the sprouts rot or develop worse when completely covered with soil. When the sprouts grow a little (to a height of 4-5 cm), you can add a layer of 2-3 cm to the substrate so that the tuber is covered. After planting, I carefully water the substrate around the tuber and place the pot in a well-lit place. Regular watering and a temperature not lower than +22 - and your tubers will germinate in about a month.