DIY drainage system around the house - design instructions

Are you designing a house and thinking about simultaneously installing a drainage system around it? Or maybe the house has been ready for a long time, but dampness in the basement disrupts the harmony and comfort in your home? In both cases, this is a necessary measure that should not be forgotten. a bunch of. Let's take a closer look at how to lay communications to remove moisture around the house with your own hands.

How to make a foundation with your own hands

Drainage is a system of pipes laid at an angle in special trenches and equipped with inspection wells. Excess moisture from the soil, accumulating in perforated pipes, flows by gravity into the storage well.

We design a drainage system

The effectiveness of the entire system depends on the accuracy of its design. Therefore, it is worth paying due attention to this stage of preparation.

The design of a drainage system begins with geological studies: determining the type of soil, the maximum groundwater level, the highest and lowest point of the site. The entire site is plotted on the plan, indicating trees, structures, and the building itself to scale. You can use checkered paper or a graphic editor. The drains will be laid along the perimeter of the house (at a distance of no more than 1 meter and at a depth just below the foundation level, the optimal slope of the trenches is 3 cm per 1 linear meter), and should be located at the lowest point of the site. Following this rule, we indicate on the drawing the laying of pipes, places for installing inspection/rotary wells and the discharge point (rotary wells should be located at every turn of the pipes, inspection wells - every 30-40 meters on straight sections of the pipeline).

Selecting drainage pipes and preparing for excavation work

So, the plan has been drawn up, it’s time to start purchasing materials for installing a drainage system around the house.

Pipes for drainage systems are made from: plastic (with a smooth wall or corrugated), “Perfokor” (plastic pipes with mineral additives), asbestos cement, ceramics. Pipes have different diameters and stiffness classes; additional filters can be built-in to prevent clogging of the perforation. Pipes Ø100-110 mm are suitable for drainage, and the lower the level of drainage, the stronger the material should be.

It is not recommended to use flexible plastic pipes for drainage due to the difficulty of maintaining an exact slope and possible silt deposits in places of minor bends during operation. You can make your own drains from smooth-walled orange plastic sewer pipes by simply drilling a sufficient number of holes in the walls.

Do not forget to purchase other materials for arranging the drainage system: fittings (tees, adapters, couplings, plugs), material for constructing the walls of inspection wells (for example, plastic rings or plastic pipes), manhole covers for inspection wells, silicone sealant, crushed stone, sand, cement, geotextile (non-woven material capable of transmitting water and retaining sand and soil particles), shovels, building level and tape measure, nylon cord. You will also need a waterproofing compound to cover the foundation.

Excavation and waterproofing works

Excavation work, which can be done manually or with an excavator, begins with digging a trench around the perimeter of the building, which should be located at a distance of half a meter from the foundation and lie 30 cm below it (at the highest point of the site). From this highest point on the site, the trenches should slope towards the catchment point by at least 1 cm/m.

The walls of the trench can be made rectangular or trapezoidal. The second option is more convenient on loose, crumbling soils. The width of the trenches is assumed to be equal to the diameter of the drainage pipes with a margin of 40-50 cm (for pipes with a diameter of 100 cm, the trench width will be about one and a half meters). Check the accuracy of excavation work using beacons or a level stretched along the bottom of the trench.

At each turn of the trench and every 30-50 meters of straight sections it is necessary to dig small pits for inspection wells. During the digging process, do not forget to remove sharp stones, large clods of earth and foreign objects from the soil that could damage the drains.

Laying the filter layer and assembling drains

When the trench around the perimeter has been dug with the proper slope, the pits for the wells are ready, you can proceed to further actions.

If you have a sufficient amount of geotextile, lay this material at the bottom of the trench (with allowance for the walls). If you saved money and did not purchase geotextiles, then the bottom of the trench should be covered with a ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand. Next, a layer of fine gravel about 10 cm thick should be poured onto the geotextile or sand. You can begin assembling the drains.

If your pipes do not have filters to protect drainage holes from clogging, wrap them in one layer of geotextile and secure it with polymer twine.

Pipes must be laid in the center of the trenches, connecting them into a single closed loop with fittings and couplings (during assembly, it is advisable to use 2 fittings with 45° angles at turns, avoiding installing fittings with right angles to avoid possible blockages). It is advisable to coat all joints with silicone sealant. If the holes on the drainage pipes are located only on one side, then the pipes are laid with these holes down. Do not forget to install rotary and inspection wells, providing them with covers and plugs at the bottom. Install a drain into which all water collected in the drains will be discharged. The height of the wells (including the receiving well) is selected based on the depth of the trench and the need for easy access to the hatch after completing landscaping work near the house.

After installation work, the pipes should be covered with a layer of crushed stone, after which this filtering layer of backfill should be covered with the edges of the geotextile laid on the bottom at the very beginning (crushed stone is poured just above the lower level of the grillage).

Video - Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house

Ring drainage system around the house

Ring drainage is installed in cases where the house has already been erected and the blind area has been laid. There are no main technological differences between ring and wall, except for the following points:

• the trench must be laid along the perimeter of the house at a distance of up to three meters from the foundation, while all the rules of earthworks, including slope and depth, remain unchanged;
• after laying drains and installing wells, you should fill in a ten-centimeter layer of crushed stone, wrap it with the free edges of geotextile, and then fill the soil to zero level;
• Instead of constructing a blind area, the backfilled ring drainage trenches are covered with a thin layer of gravel (or turf) and decorated like a ring path leading to the spillway point.

How to make linear foundation drainage with your own hands

Linear drainage involves laying drainage trays in the area adjacent to the house, and can also be installed around the perimeter of the building (including near the front door) to collect and drain surface water. The system of communicating gutters (trays) can be supplemented with point rainwater inlets for collecting rainwater from the roof and sand traps with connected drainage pipes through which water will be drained into a collector well. The system protects the building foundation and blind area from the harmful effects of excess moisture.

Preparing a linear drainage plan

In a graphics editor or on checkered paper, we draw a plan of the buildings on the site (top view). Next, we mark the line for laying linear drainage around the perimeter, designate places for installing point rainwater inlets, door grilles, and the water discharge point (the drainage well should be located at the lowest point of the site).

We purchase materials

For work you will need: trowels, shovels, cement, sand, roofing felt or roofing felt, sealant, trays with grates, sand traps, plugs, drainage pipes, nylon cord, building level, grinder.

Excavation and installation work

You can only step on drainage trays after the cement has dried. During operation, the trays should be periodically cleaned with a jet, removing the waste collection baskets.

You can learn more about the intricacies of installing a surface drainage system from the video tutorial.

Sand trap prices

sand trap

Video - Surface drainage around the house

Drainage tray installation diagram

Owners of their own houses are well aware that installing drainage around the house is on the list of priority measures. It is very important to protect buildings from flooding, otherwise gradual wetting and destruction of the foundation, distortions of window frames and doorways, the appearance of cracks on the walls and many other troubles are inevitable. Despite all the apparent complexity of the work, it is quite possible to install the drainage system yourself.

What is drainage and why is it needed?

Drainage is a system that removes excess moisture from structures. Most often it is a structure made of pipes through which water leaves the site. Some believe that effective drainage will be ensured by a good blind area around the house and drainage will no longer be needed. However, experts strongly recommend installing a drainage system that can much better protect the building from excess moisture.

There are three types of drainage:

• Open. Open ditches about half a meter deep and the same width are used as drains. The simplest option that is easy to do yourself. However, the trenches seriously spoil the appearance of the site; in addition, they quickly crumble and become unusable, so they are reinforced with various trays.
• Zasypnoe. The dug ditches are filled with large crushed stone, rubble or broken bricks. The top is covered with turf. The undeniable advantage of the structure is durability, especially if geotextiles are used when installing the structure. The main disadvantages can be considered the lack of possibility of maintenance during operation and the relatively low throughput.

Closed. Drainage is carried out using perforated pipes laid in the ground. The system is very effective, without the disadvantages of the two previous options, but it is quite complicated to set up.

Open drainage trenches are reinforced with special trays and covered with gratings

Main types of drainage structures

When thinking about how to make drainage around the house, you need to know that there are several types of such systems.

Wall drainage

The structure is mounted around the foundation and is considered mandatory if the building has basements and basements. It is best to begin installing the system during the construction of the foundation, at a time when the foundation pit has not yet been filled. Otherwise, excavation work will have to be carried out again, which will lead to additional labor costs and financial investments. Drainage is laid along the base of the building, pipes are led from the corners to inspection wells. At the lowest point of the structure, an outlet well is installed, from which water is pumped out or diverted outside the site. To further protect the foundation, a clay castle is installed at a distance of about a meter from the house.

The arrangement of wall drainage is best carried out during the construction of the foundation

Ring or trench system

This option is laid at some distance from the foundation with a deviation of about 1.5-3 m from it. It is advisable to use such a structure if the building does not have technical undergrounds, plinths and basements or if it is located on loamy and clayey soils. A clay castle is also installed between the foundation and the system. To effectively protect the building from excess moisture, drainage is laid 0.5 m deeper than the lowest point of the foundation. It is assumed that the drains will be laid on a layer that easily allows water to pass through, for example, crushed stone.

Preparing for installation

Before you start arranging drainage, you need to prepare the foundation:

• We treat the outer part of the base with a bitumen-kerosene primer;
• apply bitumen mastic on top;
• We place a plaster-painting or reinforced mesh with 2x2 mm cells into the wet bitumen;
• To close the mesh after the mastic has dried, about a day later, apply another layer of coating.

Rules for setting up the system

The basis for the construction are special drainage pipes. Most often these are plastic parts with a diameter of 75 to 100 mm with perforations applied to them. If it is not possible to purchase them, you can take ordinary sewer pipes of the required diameter and drill holes in them. In this case, you need to take into account the size of the gravel in which the part will be laid; it must be larger than the diameter of the holes being drilled.

Practice shows that it is quite possible to arrange the drainage of a house with your own hands. In this case, the following requirements must be met:

• The perforated pipe is covered with gravel to a depth of approximately 0.3 m. To prevent clogging of the system, parts wrapped in filter material are used or geotextiles are laid.
• If the structure passes under the road along which traffic moves, metal pipes are installed in this area, connected by tightly fitting couplings to the rest of the system.
• For unhindered cleaning and maintenance of the structure, inspection wells are installed at the main nodal points (at bends, at intersections of parts) and every 10-12 m on straight sections.

Water from the system is discharged into a drain or sump, the simplest version of which is a regular welded box with a metal grate.

The drainage system is installed at a slope to the water discharge point

Instructions for laying drains

Experts advise starting the arrangement of the system by drawing up a site plan. Even the simplest plan will help determine the optimal location of pipes and calculate the amount of materials needed. Installation of the structure is carried out in stages:

• We mark the site in accordance with the completed plan.
• We dig trenches of the required depth. Their width should be sufficient to fit the pipe and crushed stone inside.
• We will organize the slope of the drainage system. We measure the height differences and place poles at the required points. Carefully add sand to the bottom of the trenches until the desired bottom slope is formed.
• The bottom of the ditch is lined with geotextile, on top of which a layer of gravel is laid. Be sure to follow the chosen slope. We prepare a small recess necessary for laying pipes.
• We place the perforated parts on the prepared place and connect them securely. Be sure to check the slope of the pipeline. This can be done using a cord or rope stretched along the trench.
• We install inspection wells.
• If the filter material is not attached to the laid pipes, we wrap them in geotextiles and secure them with polypropylene tape or twine.
• We fill the system with washed gravel in a layer about 20 cm wide.
• We wrap the filter layer with a geotextile fabric previously laid in the ditch, making a large overlap.

We finally fill the system with coarse river sand.

The drainage pipe together with the filter layer is wrapped in geotextile

Inspection and collection wells

Experience shows that the “correct” manhole guarantees effective drainage around the house. The device is intended for maintenance and periodic cleaning of the system, without which it quickly becomes clogged and becomes completely unusable. You can buy a ready-made element in a store or make it yourself from a piece of plastic pipe of a suitable diameter. The well must be large enough for a person to reach into it to clean the structure.

A well is installed at the lowest point of the system to collect water. You can also purchase it in a store or do it yourself. Welded and reinforced concrete structures are very common. The latter can be made from rings or cast with your own hands. In any case, the depth of the well must be sufficient so that sand and earth settling to the bottom do not interfere with the free flow of water. The sediment is periodically cleaned out.

An example of self-made storage well

A properly executed drainage system around the building will protect it from excessive moisture, which can cause many problems. Professionals can easily handle this work, but if you wish, you can do it yourself. A pleasant result of the efforts spent will be a cozy home, reliably protected from the harmful effects of groundwater.

When designing a house, it is advisable to immediately think about the need to install a drainage system around it. If the house has already been built, and the damp basement does not allow comfortable living, then the drainage system around the house should be made with your own hands later. There are several types of drainage systems, and each of them has its own characteristics and characteristics, so all of them will be discussed in this article.

Do-it-yourself wall foundation drainage

Drainage is a system of pipes that are laid in specially dug trenches maintaining a constant slope that ensures the drainage of water into the water intake. When soil moisture exceeds permissible limits, excess moisture enters the perforated pipes and flows into the well (read: “Do-it-yourself drainage wells - how to do it right”).

What does a drainage system around a house look like, and how to do a truly high-quality design?

The first step is to conduct a geological exploration of the site, determining the following indicators:

• soil type on the site;
• maximum groundwater level;
• the highest and lowest points of the site.

This data must be plotted on the site plan along with schematic images of all objects located on it: trees, buildings and the building itself. Drains must be laid along the perimeter of the building, and the distance from the house must be at least one meter, and the depth of drainage around the house must be at least 30 cm greater than the depth of the foundation.

In addition, a constant slope must be observed, the value of which must be at least 3 cm per meter of pipeline length. The drainage well is always located at the lowest point of the site, and it is into it that all collected water flows. Following these rules, a pipe laying map is created, on which the points where inspection drainage wells will be installed are also plotted. There is an opinion that it is possible to combine a storm sewer system with drainage, but experts do not advise doing so.

Preparing to work around the house

When the work plan is ready, you can begin more material tasks: purchasing material and preparing tools.

Drainage pipes are made from different materials: there are products made from plastic, asbestos cement, and ceramics. However, it is plastic products that deservedly become most widespread, the characteristics of which are excellent for creating drainage structures (read: “How to make drainage around the house correctly”).

The diameter of the pipes should be in the range of 100-110 mm. If the pipes will be laid to great depths, then care should be taken to ensure that they are as strong as possible. Experts do not recommend using flexible plastic pipes, since it is difficult to maintain a slope with them.

In addition to pipes, you need to purchase additional elements, the list of which includes:

• fitting;
• inspection wells and manhole covers for them;
• geotextile fabric.

If the building has not yet been built, then waterproofing for the foundation will come in handy, and, of course, you will need basic construction tools: shovels, a building level and a tape measure.

Now that everything is ready to go, installing a drainage system around the house is a matter of time. First of all, a trench is dug around the building at the required depth, the dimensions of which must correspond to those stated in the plan. The sides of the trench can be of any shape, but there is a nuance: if the soil is initially quite loose, then it makes sense to make small bevels. The width of the trench is also calculated in advance. To accurately observe all the required dimensions, you must remember to use a tape measure and a level.

Each turn of the trench and every 30-50 meters of straight distances should be equipped with small recesses in which inspection wells will be installed.

If in the process of digging a ditch you come across stones, hard pieces of earth and other foreign elements, they should be removed so as not to damage the pipes in the future. After completing the excavation work, you can cover the foundation with waterproofing, if this has not been done previously.

When the previous work is completed, you can proceed directly to creating the drainage system. The bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of crushed stone and sand approximately 10 cm deep and compacted, after which geotextiles are laid on it. The free edges of the fabric need to be wrapped around the walls in order to later wrap them around the pipes.

When the lining is ready, pipes are laid on it. The pipeline should run through the center of the trench. When connecting pipes, it is worth additionally coating them with silicone sealant. If the pipes have perforations on only one side, then it is better to place them with the holes down. During the work process, it is important not to forget about the need to install inspection and rotary wells. One of the last stages will be the installation of a drainage well. The height of the wells is determined in such a way that after completion of the work they can be easily accessed.

Having finished installing the pipes, they must be covered with a layer of crushed stone, wrapped in geotextiles and covered with earth, covering the entire structure with a layer of turf.

Ring drainage system around the house

A ring drainage system around the house is needed when the house has already been built and the blind area has been equipped.

By and large, the ring drainage system is performed in the same way as the wall one, but there are some differences:

• the trench should be three meters from the foundation, and all other dimensions will remain the same;
• when the laying of the drains is completed, they are covered with a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone, and the rest of the space is filled with soil;
• In this case, the trenches can be decorated as a ring path directed towards the drain.

Linear foundation drainage

Linear drainage refers to the installation of drainage trays on the site. In addition, they can be installed around the perimeter of the building to collect and drain atmospheric precipitation (read: “We do the drainage of the foundation of a house with our own hands correctly”). The efficiency of the trays can be increased by combining them with point rainwater inlets and sand traps with connected drainage pipes, which will make it possible to drain water directly into the collector well.

The work is carried out according to a similar plan: first, a design diagram is prepared taking into account all the objects located on the site. Then the line for laying the linear drainage system is drawn, and the installation locations for rainwater inlets and other structural elements are indicated. Then materials are purchased, tools are prepared, after which you can proceed directly to the construction of the drainage system.

The work will be carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. First, a trench for the trays is prepared. All rules remain the same, but the depth should be only 10-15 cm greater than the height of the tray, and the width should be 10 centimeters greater.
2. When the trench is ready, a drainage well is installed, to which a plastic sewer pipe is connected, connected to the installation site of the first tray.
3. Now you can pour the concrete base. When it is ready, you can connect the following trays through a system of adapters and connecting elements. The system is ready, and now water on the site will not be a problem.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house is not a problem if you approach this issue competently and intelligently. Proper drainage will create comfort in the house and will make it possible to avoid constant flooding and flooding: the house will become a fortress that no water can break.

7. Construction of a blind area around the house and the drainage system of the site

The main task of the blind area is to drain surface water from the house (from rain and melting snow) so that too much moisture does not accumulate in the soil near the foundation, which freezes in winter, “heaves”, softens the soil, including unevenly, which is why the house can settle unevenly, the load-bearing characteristics of the soil deteriorate. It is not advisable to leave the house in winter without blind area(and it is best to insulate the blind area - read about the foundation of a shallow foundation in the section “Foundation construction”). The covering of the blind area must be waterproof and resistant to erosion by water (as a rule, concrete is poured into the base and paving slabs are laid on top); Trays (usually plastic) are installed around the perimeter of the blind area and rain inlets are connected to them to receive/discharge water from the roof drainage system. The blind area is made with a slope from the house (2-3 cm per meter of width), but the width of the blind area itself should be (according to SNiP): for sandy soils at least 70 cm, for clay soils at least 100 cm. Thickness 10 cm at the thinnest point .

Reasons to drain the area may be: clay soils on which water “stands”; high groundwater level; if the site is located in a lowland, as a result of which large volumes of water flow to it; if the area is on a flat surface from which water almost does not flow; The presence of deep structures (basement or cellar) is undesirable. When installing a drainage system, take into account landing zones(trees, shrubs and other plantings), as well as the presence of various building structures, by the way, roads and fences (on a strip foundation) create barriers to the natural flow of water, which can cause the soil to become flooded and swampy.

The essence of drainage around the house/foundation is as follows. Selected top point (one of the corners of the house, farthest from the collector well) from which to bottom point (collector well, water reservoir) drainage lines are laid around the perimeter of the house perforated sloped pipes. IN manhole(closest to the collector) silt accumulates at the bottom, and as water accumulates, it flows through the next pipe (without holes) into collector a well from which a pump or gravity drains into a ditch. Either the water from the inspection well is diverted into a filter well, and in it, through a layer of sand and gravel, it goes into the ground (the filtering capacity of the soil should allow it). Simplescheme: a relatively small inspection well is used as a collector well, and from it water is discharged at a slope into a ditch.

The basis of the drainage system serve as drainage pipes (drains) with holes for receiving water; pipes are laid in the ground and lined with granite crushed stone or clean gravel (sand and gravel mixture, as well as crushed limestone, is not used, they “clog” the pipe holes and soil voids, preventing water from penetrating into the drainage pipes).

To protect crushed stone and pipes from siltation they are covered on all sides with geotextiles. If drainage under the house is required (to drain groundwater from the basement), then pipes are laid around the perimeter of the house with an indentation of 1-2 meters from it approximately half a meter below the foundation, and below the depth of soil freezing (soil heaving can change the slope of the pipes, water will stagnate, pipes will become clogged; in the Novosibirsk region the required depth is 2.5 meters, but pipes can be laid at a depth of one meter if the blind area is insulated). Common diameter of drainage pipes 110 mm(like a sewer pipe). A layer of crushed stone-gravel around the pipes 10-15
see fractions 20-40 mm(5-20 is possible, but more expensive). Below and above sand bedding is made (passes/filters water). The slope of the drainage system should be 2 cm per meter of pipe, beginning from the top point (the corner of the house farthest from the collector) and ending with the bottom point (collector well, water reservoir). These points are calculated at the design stage: from the highest point towards the lower one, the drainage of rain, melt and groundwater is organized. Organize drainage around the house is necessary during foundation construction(until the pit is filled in). At key “points” (every second turn of the pipe, height difference) it is necessary to install inspection wells, which serve for periodic flushing of drainage pipes and for the possibility of repairing the system. The end point of the drainage system is the discharge of water into a roadside ditch, or (if there is no ditch nearby, the groundwater level is short) drainage of wastewater into a filter (absorption) well, and through it into the ground.

Drainage around the house: basic technology, types of drainage systems and their cost

The volume and depth of the filter well are calculated based on the water permeability of the soil and the groundwater level. The filter well is located on half a meter below drainage pipes, and to groundwater there should be at least meter(State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision reports: “Drainage waters are characterized by the presence of microbial contamination and high levels of mineral salts” ... “are a source of microbial contamination ... of underground aquifers, drinking water”). A private house is not a chemical enterprise, but it is worth observing basic measures.

If there are no ditches or groundwater does not allow it, then wastewater can be accumulated in a sufficiently large (3-4 m3) and sealed collector well. In winter, drainage, as a rule, is not needed (groundwater is low, it doesn’t rain, the snow doesn’t melt), and in the warm season, water from the well can be used for “technical” needs: watering lawns, bushes, beds, or washing something .

Drainage pipes come with perforation and without perforation(the latter for draining wastewater into a roadside ditch or into a filter well, so that
do not “splash” water “along the road”). There are pipes with a filter (wrapped with geo-fabric) and without a filter. Their prices are almost the same. Considering that in real conditions construction sites and crushed stone can be dirty, and the geofabric can be torn, it is better to use pipes with filter. Large collector It’s better to buy a ready-made plastic well. Well from reinforced concrete rings can be made in larger volume, but high quality sealing it will be much more expensive. Wherein filtering the well is made from reinforced concrete rings (as in the case of sewerage). Regarding the drainage of surface water and high water, it is cheaper and more effective to raise the level of the site and make a slope towards the ditch. before construction of a house, rather than subsequently digging shallow trenches across the entire site and laying drainage pipes in the zone of soil freezing. "Pie" drainage system around the house and the depth of the trenches are calculated in such a way that “everything” fits under the level of the blind area - scheme.

How to make drainage around the house correctly

Many homeowners are interested in the question of how to arrange drainage around the house. There are several different variations of schemes that allow you to create drainage around the blind area of ​​the house. If we consider them all in detail, it will become clear that the best option is a closed drainage system.

What materials and tools will be needed to implement such a drainage system around the house with your own hands?

The standard set will look like this:

• inspection wells;
• drainage pipe;
• shovel;
• hacksaw.

Why is drainage needed around the house?

How to make drainage around the house, and why is it needed at all? The first thing that needs to be said when it comes to drainage is that this system is not a replacement for foundation waterproofing, but only complements it. True, in areas where the groundwater level is high, a drainage system is a mandatory element, and without it the house will “float” very quickly.

It is very important to take into account both the amount of precipitation in the area and the altitude of the site in a particular area: if there is too much precipitation, the house will be constantly surrounded by water, and the site located in the lowlands will gradually be washed away from below by soil waters. In such cases, the question is “why?” disappears, and the question arises: “how to do drainage around the house?”

In addition, it is important to take these factors into account before the construction of the building itself begins, since in this case it is much easier to build a drainage system.

Classification of drainage systems

How to make drainage around the house if you don’t even know how it is classified? There are three options for drainage systems, and each of them has its own pros and cons.

Here are the types of structures that exist:

1. Open drainage. To implement this option, it is necessary to dig a wide trench around the house, and its depth should be greater than the depth of the foundation (read also: “We do the drainage of the foundation of a house with our own hands correctly”). The width of the ditch can be quite narrow - this is not a critical aspect, but maintaining a constant slope towards the water intake is very important, otherwise the water simply will not be able to move further. As a result, the site will end up with a ditch surrounding the house, which will have a bad effect on the aesthetic indicators of the site and can even be dangerous: falling into a hole, the depth of which is comparable to human height, is not the most pleasant process.
2. Backfill drainage. In essence, this method is identical to the previous one, but with one difference: in this case, the ditch will be filled with various building materials, such as cinder blocks or crushed stone, and all this will be covered with a layer of turf on top. Yes, you won’t be able to fall into such a drainage hole, but there is no particular point in such drainage, since the throughput of the trench will drop to a minimum.
3. Closed drainage. This is a more serious design for which high-quality materials are used. Often, in conjunction with such systems, a blind area is made around the house, and the drainage is completely hidden from prying eyes.

   Closed drainage systems are safe, effective, easy to maintain and pleasant to use. Of course, this option is more suitable as an answer to the question of how to properly make drainage around the house, and it is this type of drainage system that will be discussed in this article.

Selection of pipes for the drainage system

Today you can find the following types of drainage pipes on the market:

• asbestos-cement. Such pipes have the best strength characteristics, can last up to 50 years, and have good resistance to aggressive environments, but there is one drawback: they are incredibly heavy. In addition, if necessary, you will have to work hard to make through holes in them every 15-20 cm (read also: “Do-it-yourself drainage pipe - design and installation with examples”);
• ceramic. This material itself is quite fragile, so ceramic pipes must be handled very carefully. You will have to cut holes in such pipes yourself, but the task is made easier by less strength. Some models initially have surface grooves that improve the liquid collection process. It is difficult to install ceramic pipes precisely because of their low strength;
• porous pipes. The material for production can be different: plastic concrete, expanded clay and many others. There is no need to perforate porous pipes, since their structure provides them with good moisture absorption. These pipes are expensive, and the efficiency will directly depend on the diameter of the pipes: the higher, the better;
• plastic pipes. The drainage scheme around the house most often includes plastic pipes, which is due to their good performance: they are cheap, easy to install and maintain, can last for several decades and are quite durable.

How to make a drainage system around the house

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands? To create proper drainage around the house, which will serve its owner for many years, you should follow the algorithm below for performing construction work:

1. Taking measurements. First you need to find out where the lowest point of the site is. This is where the drain well will be installed, and this is where the entire system will be directed. If you cannot visually determine the slope of the area, then you need to use a theodolite. This device is quite rare, but you can rent it.

   In ditches dug around the house, a slope of at least 10 mm per 1 meter of length must be maintained. Of course, water will be able to move through the system even with a smaller slope, but it is worth taking into account the fact that the structure will become clogged, and too small a slope will eventually cause clogging of the pipeline. You will have to dig a little more, but in the future this work will pay off with interest.

2. Digging trenches. The minimum depth of the ditch should be at a level deeper than the foundation level by at least 30 cm. This is one of the reasons why drainage around the house with your own hands should be started even before the construction of the house begins: the foundation pit is usually dug with a reserve (read: “Drainage depth around the house - rules and regulations"). The width of the ditch should be about half a meter, and its upper point should be on the opposite side of the site in relation to the drainage well.
3. Backfill. Large crushed stone is placed at the bottom of the ditch. Then it needs to be covered with a layer of sand and compacted. As a result, the thickness of the resulting layer should be about 15 cm. The slope must still be observed: every meter of length should be checked against the building level. On the bottom of the trench obtained in this way, you need to lay geotextile fabric, and its edges should rise along the sides of the ditch: a little later, drainage pipes will be wrapped in them.
4. Laying pipes. Now you can lay drainage pipes in the ditch. Pipe joints must be insulated using special tape. It is at this stage that inspection wells are usually installed, and it is advisable to place them in diametrically opposite places on the site. In addition, the height of the wells should be measured not by the depth of the trench in a given location, but by the level of the earth's surface throughout the entire area.

   Reliable drainage system around the house: DIY device

   The pipeline is pulled to the inspection wells and drainage well, after which the system is tested. This is a very important point, because the pipes have not yet been completely filled in, and any shortcomings can now be corrected. Testing drainage is very simple - just pour a few buckets of water into it. If everything works fine, then you can proceed to the last step.

5. The pipes are again covered with crushed stone or gravel on top. The layer thickness should be about 40 cm. Then the structure is wrapped with geotextiles. If desired, you can combine the drainage system and storm sewer, sending all the water to the drainage well.

A layer of crushed stone is covered with earth, and a layer of turf is laid on top of it all. The construction of the drainage system is now complete.

Conclusion

This article answered the question of how to make drainage around the house. If you follow the proposed algorithms and correctly arrange drainage around the house, the resulting system will work flawlessly for many years, protecting the building and site from the destructive effects of moisture.

Drainage system around the house: features of the device and water drainage scheme

Installation of drainage around the foundation of the house.

In most cases, drainage around the house is the only way to maintain the integrity of the foundation, since the main enemy of the foundation of a structure is water.

During the construction of the foundation, the walls of this structure are treated with waterproofing materials, but they do not last forever, and with prolonged contact with the moisture contained in the soil, they gradually lose their ability to repel water from the foundation. If the foundation is built in a place where the groundwater is low and the aquifers are not in contact with the surface of the foundation, the process of destruction is very slow, but where the water is close to the surface, the foundation is highly susceptible to its influence. In areas where groundwater is close to the surface, moisture constantly stands under the foundation, and with heavy rainfall, flooding of the ground floor or basement can even occur.

So, installing a drainage system around the foundation is a vital necessity when groundwater is close, and also when there is heavy rainfall in the area in which the house is built. It is best to plan the installation of a drainage system at the stage of constructing the foundation, but if it comes to a ready-made house, then you can make a drainage system around the finished structure. Drainage systems suitable for private houses include two main types: wall and open drainage.

Layout of drainage pipes around a standard house.

To be fair, it is worth noting that open drainage is a very effective means of draining water in areas where the groundwater level is low, but at high levels this drainage option is almost useless.

Making drainage around the house is not difficult in this case; it is enough to dig grooves up to 25 cm deep around the house. Such drainage will be quite sufficient to collect melt and rain water.

Wall drainage is a more complex structure, but you can do it yourself, although this will require you to spend a little money on purchasing the necessary materials. This type of drainage is recommended for use in places with high soil moisture, since it is structures of this type that can completely solve the problem of flooding of the ground floor or basement.

How to make a wall drainage system?

The wall system is a structure based on drainage pipes. To form a drainage system, you will need the following materials and tools:

First of all, in order to install a drainage system, a trench is dug at a distance of approximately 1 m from the foundation for laying drainage pipes. If a perforated drainage pipe is used, the width and depth of the trench must be at least 30 cm, since not only the pipe, but also the cushion must fit in the trench. The trench is made along the contour around the house to ensure high-quality drainage on all sides. The bottom of the prepared trench must be covered with a 5 cm layer of sand.

Scheme of the drainage “pie” near the foundation.

When preparing a trench for laying pipes, you need to ensure that its bottom has a slope of at least 2 cm. A layer of rolled geotextile is laid on top of the sand cushion. When laying geotextiles, you need to make sure that its edges extend to the sides of the trench. A 10 cm layer of fine gravel is poured on top of the geotextile, which is covered with the edges of the geotextile, previously folded over the edges of the trench. This drainage device allows water to easily penetrate the pipes and be drained away from the foundation.

After the preparatory work, you can begin laying the pipes. The design of the drainage pipes should be such that they are located around the house and both ends of the ring of pipes converge in one place - thus, water through downhill pipes will flow into one common pipe. The common pipe should lead to the water intake. Inspection wells should be placed in the corners of the house so that clogged pipes can be cleaned if necessary. After the installation of drainage pipes around the perimeter of the house is completed, you need to fill the remaining part of the trench with gravel.

The installation of a water intake does not require extra costs; for this, an empty tank is taken with holes drilled in the bottom in advance. The reservoir is dug into the ground, and a common pipe is connected to it at a slope so that the collected water flows into the reservoir. From the reservoir, water will flow into the soil through holes in its lower part. Thus, the drainage system works completely autonomously, but once a year the pipes need to be cleaned to prevent clogging of the holes in the perforated pipes.

Drainage around the house

Drainage around the house is an effective way to protect building elements and outbuildings from moisture.

The creation of such a drainage system is especially important if groundwater is located at a depth of less than 2.5 meters. This is also necessary if the residential structure is located on a site prone to seasonal or weather-related flooding. Installing drainage is not a difficult task, but to organize it correctly you need to follow simple rules. How to properly make drainage around the house with your own hands?

System Description

To effectively drain groundwater, rain and melt water, which not only destroys structural elements of a building, fills the basement and cellar, but also reduces the bearing capacity of the soil, there are several methods for constructing drainage. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, deciding which type to choose and how to make drainage around the house with your own hands remains with the owner of the country property.

The design and location of the system for protecting against excess moisture is selected taking into account the terrain, the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, and the type of soil. By design, the following drainage systems are distinguished: backfill, open and closed.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Depending on what area of ​​land needs to be drained, what type of drainage and what depth of the drainage system will be most effective, the location of the entire system is chosen. If necessary, eliminate the impact of water on the foundation and basements, create wall or ring drainage. The first type is appropriate if there is a basement or basement and is located in close proximity to the foundation walls. Trenches are dug around the perimeter, a perforated pipe is laid (below the basement floor level) and covered with crushed stone or gravel. The wall is fenced off with a layer of geotextile with one-way conductivity. Water from the ground does not reach the walls, but enters the drainage system and is discharged to a safe place.

To protect the entire area, the drainage system is located around its perimeter. The most labor-intensive, expensive, but also the most effective method is a closed system using plastic perforated pipes. The price in Moscow for perforated plastic pipes is low and affordable for any family budget. It perfectly removes excess water from the site, preventing mold from developing, destroying garden and vegetable plants, destroying load-bearing building elements and not spoiling the appearance of the house.

To create such a drainage, you need to perform several operations:

• draw a diagram of the future system on paper indicating the dimensions and distance from the edge of the site, as well as taking into account the landscape design and location of plantings;
• will mark future routes on the site itself using paint or sand;
• with your own hands or using small equipment, dig trenches along marked routes (depth and width depend on the level of groundwater and the diameter of the pipes used, vary from 70 to 150 cm in depth and from 25 to 40 cm in width);
• line the bottom and walls of the trench with geotextile (the material will significantly reduce clogging of the drainage and significantly increase the period of effective operation);
• Apply a layer of sand (about 15 cm) to the bottom, and then a layer of crushed stone or gravel (about 20 cm);
• using the device and the gravel layer, set the desired level of slope;
• if the site area is large, it will be necessary to create inspection wells at a distance of 50 meters from each other in places where pipes bend or change the slope;
• perforated pipes are laid (best with a filter element - fiberglass, coconut fiber, non-woven or needle-punched textiles) and connected to each other using fittings;
• the most optimal diameter of the drainage pipe, ensuring good water drainage, is considered to be 110 mm;
• check the slope again (this can be easily done using a stretched rope), and it is necessary to create a uniform level, eliminating sagging of the drainage pipe;
• it is very important that the drainage system is below the soil freezing level;
• the pipes are covered with crushed stone or gravel on top; the thickness of the layer should not reach the soil surface of about 15 cm;
• Geotextiles are laid on the crushed stone layer and soil is filled.

There is no need to be afraid of increasing the cost of creating drainage: purchasing additional geotextiles and separating all layers from each other will only increase the efficiency and service life of the entire system.

Following these simple instructions will allow you to install long-term water protection with your own hands and preserve your property and health throughout the entire life of your home.

Backfill design

The backfill drainage structure is a deep trench (below the upper groundwater level) filled with coarse gravel, crushed stone or other rubble material.

How to properly make drainage around the house

The upper part of the trench is covered with a layer of turf, and to reduce swimming and silting of the passage space, the walls are laid with a layer of geotextile material. Such drainage is easy to create, low cost, long service life and no need for maintenance.

In addition, in its final form it does not disrupt the overall appearance of the site and does not introduce dissonance into the landscape design. The disadvantages include the low throughput of the water flow and the impossibility of cleaning the drainage channel if it is clogged.

Open type drainage device

The open option or surface drainage involves the creation of shallow open trenches (about 0.5 meters), through which rain and melt water is drained into special containers or discharged outside the site. To prevent swimming and destruction of the trench walls, plastic or metal trays are placed in them. Additional security is provided by the grilles placed on top.

How to properly make a closed drainage system

The most complex and labor-intensive type of drainage is the closed type. When organizing it, trenches are dug, a layer of gravel or coarse crushed stone is poured onto the bottom, and then perforated pipes are laid. From above, the entire structure is again covered with crushed stone or gravel and at the end a layer of soil is applied. To increase the efficiency of water drainage and reduce siltation, filter material (geotextile) is used on perforated pipes. The materials for making perforated pipes are steel, asbestos cement, and ceramics, but now almost all types have given way to plastic. Corrugated plastic pipes, which already have holes in their finished form, are long and easy to install, have become widespread.

When choosing any method of removing excess moisture, you should definitely take into account the slope of the drainage channels. For proper operation of the system, the level of inclination towards the outlet to an artificial or natural water intake must be at least 3° along one branch or 1 cm per linear meter. When deciding how to properly tilt the drainage, you can use the adjustment of the thickness of the gravel cushion.

Drainage at home: do it yourself, step-by-step instructions, videos, tips and tricks. From this article you will learn the features of such a design as the drainage system of a house: the installation of drainage at the foundation part of the house, the rules for performing this procedure and the requirements put forward for storm drainage. You will be able to study in detail the technology for creating wall-type drainage, and also get acquainted with the prices for this type of work, performed by turnkey specialists.

The drainage system is equipped to protect the house from storm, melt and groundwater

Do not confuse the process of arranging drainage around the house with your own hands with performing waterproofing. These two concepts are incompatible, but the two technologies are not mutually exclusive. Together, they make it possible to create reliable protection for the base of a residential building from moisture.

Installation of a drainage system for a private house

Organizing a drainage system for a home, or, as it is also called, a drainage system, makes it possible to reduce the water level in a suburban area or completely eliminate excess liquid.

Note! The danger of flooding is likely both from the outside and from the inside. From the outside, the foundation may be affected by flood waters and sediment accumulation. On the inside, flooding is caused by groundwater if it lies close to the surface. In this case, waterproofing protection comes in handy.

Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to properly protect the base of a residential building, its basement and basement from water penetration over a long period of time. Long-term exposure to moisture will eventually expose weak spots and holes in the waterproofing. It is simply impossible to do without foundation drainage when the groundwater level is high.

The feasibility of installing drainage around the house

Constant exposure to moisture can not only destroy the concrete foundation of a building, but also provoke the appearance of other negative impact factors. Such factors include putrefactive processes, the development of fungi and other microorganisms that can live in the load-bearing structures of the building.

Wall drainage is necessary to remove ground, rain and melt water from the foundation

This result can be caused either by the lack of drainage of the foundation of the house, or by errors made during calculations or direct installation of the system. Even if such a problem already exists, this does not mean that the situation cannot be corrected. The advantage of such a system is that the installation of wall foundation drainage can be carried out even after all construction work on the construction of the building has already been completed.

Installation for private houses is advisable in the following cases:

1. The site has a low-lying location - the lower the territory is located in relation to the surrounding landscape, the more pressing the problem of the lack of a drainage system becomes.
2. The quality of the soil does not allow moisture to be absorbed into the ground in a natural manner - loamy and clayey soil options slow down the processes of natural decrease in water level in the area.
3. The area is characterized by a high level of precipitation - storm water collects on the surface in such quantities that it simply does not have time to be removed through natural means.
4. Groundwater is located too close to the surface.

Design of foundation drainage for a residential building

Note! Drainage patterns around the houseshould take into account the presence of waterproof coatings on the site. These surfaces include paths, driveways, and rest areas that have asphalt or paved tile surfaces.

Main types of drainage and stormwater around the house

Correctly making drainage around the house, as well as installing a stormwater system in the garden, is quite easy. The main thing is:

• perform the calculations correctly;
• select the type of system appropriate to the site conditions;
• select materials suitable for technical and operational characteristics;
• carry out drainage of the foundation and blind area in accordance with the requirements and technology.

Drainage system around the house

Choosing a foundation drainage system

The type of system is selected based on the conditions in the area. The more acute the problem with flooding in a site, the more drastic the protective measures must be.

Main types of surface systems:

• storm drainage or installation of surface drainage around the house. Its main advantage lies in its simple and accessible technology. Most of the work is carried out quickly and without the help of specialists. The disadvantages of this system include limited capabilities. The storm drain can only remove melt and storm moisture; it cannot cope with the problem of groundwater;
• linear system - covers a wide range of tasks and is capable of draining the entire territory of a summer cottage and the area around the building. In this case, water moves through channels and enters the well for drainage. In most cases, channels are characterized by a linear type of placement. Special grilles are put on top;
• a point system is a do-it-yourself option for foundation drainage, which allows you to quickly remove excess moisture from locally located sources. These sources include watering taps and drainpipes. Point-type drainage is covered with decorative grilles made of metal. They prevent the system from clogging with debris and fallen leaves. From each water intake point, drainage pipes are laid around the house with your own hands in accordance with technology that involves the subsequent connection of water transmission paths to a single main line leading to the well.

Linear drainage around the house

Helpful advice! Point and linear systems can be combined, resulting in a combined drainage option that makes it possible to increase the efficiency of draining the area around the building.

Features of a high-quality home drainage system: cost of work

The price of turnkey drainage around a house is, of course, much higher than the cost of similar work done with your own hands. But in this case you get:

• guaranteed quality of result;
• full compliance with all technological standards;
• accurate calculation of all parameters and correct choice of materials;
• absence of errors fatal to the system;
• high speed of organization of turnkey foundation drainage.

Cost of drainage in the area around the house(storm drain):

To the indicated cost of drainage around the house, the cost of installing each additional rainwater inlet, if necessary, is added. It is 1500 rubles/piece.

To make a more accurate cost calculation, it is necessary to take into account the number of risers leading from the roof (for each riser you should purchase a storm inlet), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (on the basis of this indicator the molding of the system is determined).

Helpful advice! If you want to organize a system for draining storm water, it is enough to limit yourself to a shallow storm drain (up to 1 m). It will only be able to function in the warm season. A system with a depth level below soil freezing (more than 1.5 m) can handle rain and melt water. This type of sewer can be used in combination with heated cable drain systems.

Common foundation and garden drainage schemes

All drainage systems around the house can be divided into two groups according to the type of location:

• drainage at the foundation part of the building;
• garden drainage systems.

Diagram of the drainage system at a summer cottage

To organize stormwater and drainage structures for garden plots, the following schemes are used:

• "herringbone";
• "partial sampling";
• "parallel placement".

In other cases, other foundation drainage schemes are used: wall and ring.

The wall drainage placement scheme involves digging in and installing a clay castle across the entire foundation along the perimeter. The width of this element is 0.5-1 m. This type of scheme is recommended for use if the building has a basement or is equipped with a basement. In this case, the depth of drainage around the house is determined by the level of placement of the floors. The pipes are placed approximately 25-30 cm lower than the floor surface.

The drainage system at the base of the house consists of:

• sand cushion;
• geotextile film;
• pipeline (internal diameter 100-200 mm);
• a layer of sand with a drainage purpose;
• soil;
• layers of clay (can be replaced with a waterproof film coating).

Ring (trench) drainage – most suitable for sandy surfaces

The ring drainage scheme around the house involves laying trenches with a distance of 1.5-3 m from the building. To prevent the penetration of moisture into the area located between the base of the house and the trench, you need to arrange a clay castle.

Helpful advice! Select the depth of the trenches taking into account the placement of the base of the foundation. You need to step back 0.5 m from it. Thanks to this, you eliminate the possibility of flooding the basement floor, as well as basements.

House drainage installation: price of foundation specialist services

As in the case of storm drains, prices for organizing a drainage system at the foundation depend not only on the length of the building along the perimeter, but also on the depth level of the drainage structure.

Arrangement of the roundaboutdrainage around the house: cost of workFull construction:

Installing a collector well for this system, complete with a pumping station, will cost approximately 35,000 rubles. Provided that the diameter of the product is 1 m.

Calculation of the exact cost of turnkey work is carried out taking into account the depth of the foundation of the house (the level of depth depends on this indicator), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (also take into account the required distance from the wall).

Arrangement of wallhouse drainage: cost of workFull construction:

When installing drainage around the house according to this scheme, the same collector wells are used as in the previous case.

Drainage system at home: do-it-yourself drainage system

To arrange drainage for a blind area around a house or other similar system, a soil analysis is carried out at the initial stage. As a rule, such data becomes known during the construction of the foundation part of the building. To do this, several wells (4-5 pieces) are drilled in the construction zone to a depth of 5 m and the area is studied.

On clayey and loamy soils, moisture from precipitation and snowmelt accumulates in the upper layer of soil. A similar situation occurs if groundwater passes at a depth of less than 2.5 m from the surface.

Drainage around the house allows you to slow down the process of foundation destruction due to the influence of groundwater

Helpful advice! If you are not confident in your own abilities, entrust the choice of drainage system to professionals. If problems arise, specialists will be able to correct the causes of their occurrence.

Planningdrainage around the house: how to do it rightcalculation of freezing depth:

The table shows the maximum freezing limit. In practice, this figure is usually less by about 20-30%.

Organizing wall drainage at home: how to install it correctly

Before installing a drainage system around the house with your own hands, you need to do a number of preparatory work, since this structure will be adjacent to the foundation part of the building. Preparation includes:

1. Treatment of the base with a bitumen primer from the outside.
2. Applying bitumen mastic over a dried surface.
3. Gluing a reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 2x2 mm.
4. Dry the surface during the day.
5. Applying a second layer of bitumen mastic.

The specific gravity of the soil may influence the pipe laying pattern. Data on the main soil categories are presented in the table.

Distances between drains forDIY drainage devices around the house:

Pipeline installation depth, cm	Optimal distance between pipes, cm
	Light soil types	Soils with average indicators	Heavy clay soils
450	450-550	400-500	200-300
600	650-750	500-650	300-400
900	900-1100	700-900	400-550
1200	1200-1500	1000-1200	450-700
1500	1550-1800	1200-1500	650-900
1800	1800-2200	1500-1800	700-1100

Helpful advice! When drawing up a pipeline laying plan, take into account not only the specific gravity, but also the type of soil. On sandy soils, the optimal pipe laying spacing is no more than 50 m, on clay soils - 10 m, on loamy soils - 20 m.

Technology for creating drainage at home: how to do the main body of work

The procedure for creating foundation drainage with your own hands on clay soils:

• a collector well is being installed at the lowest point of the site;
• a trench is formed along the foundation with a slope towards the drainage basin, which is adjusted using a building level;
• a sand cushion 5 cm thick is created at the bottom of the trenches;
• geotextile fabric is laid on top of the sand cushion with a margin so that the ends of the fabric can be overlapped;
• formation of a gravel cushion 10 cm thick;

Home drainage is a priority task

• installation of pipes at an angle of 2°;
• joining pipeline elements using corner connectors and adapters;
• Inspection wells are placed in the corners of the structure. A pipeline with a slope is laid from them to the drainage well;
• formation of a gravel embankment 10 cm thick;
• wrapping pipes with gravel with the free ends of geotextile fabric, which is fixed with strong synthetic ropes;
• filling trenches with earth or sand (depending on the type of soil on the site).

Arrangement of ring drainage around the house with your own hands: how to install the system

To install this system, it is necessary to make a closed system of trenches around the structure, taking into account that their depth must exceed the level of the foundation by 0.5 m.

Helpful advice! Use perforated pipes in your work. The trenches must be removed 5-8 m from the base of the house, otherwise the soil around the structure will begin to sag.

For drainage system

In this case, the trenches should also be located with a slope towards the well to collect water. The minimum slope is 2-3 cm/linear m. By adding sand or removing it, this indicator can be controlled.

Step-by-step technology for arranging drainage around the foundation:

1. Sand is poured onto the bottom of the trench and geotextile fabric is laid with a margin (the free edges must be wrapped around the walls of the trench).
2. A crushed stone cushion 10 cm thick is formed.
3. A pipeline with an element diameter of 10 cm or more with an inclination angle of 2° is being installed.
4. Inspection wells are installed in those places where the pipes are turned. On straight sections, wells can be installed at a distance of 12 m from each other.
5. An embankment is made of gravel or crushed stone (layer thickness 20-30 cm).
6. The free edges of the geotextile fabric are wrapped.
7. The trenches are filled to the top with sand and earth.

Closed drainage, subject to device technology and proper operation, effectively collects water for many years

Organizing drainage around the house with your own hands without pipes

The process of arranging drainage around the house can be done without the use of pipes and even crushed stone. Alternative types of drainage:

1. Backfill system - available materials (concrete fragments, broken bricks, stones, pieces of hardened cement) and always geotextile fabric are used as filler for trenches.
2. Drainage based on plastic bottles - material with screwed caps is laid longitudinally in trenches, covered with turf and earth.
3. Fascine system - bundles of brushwood with a diameter of 30 cm, tied with nylon laces or wire, are used.
4. Perch drainage - spacer sticks are installed at the bottom of the trenches, where small young trees or long branches are then placed.
5. Plank system - boards are placed at the bottom of the trenches in such a way as to form a triangle in cross-section, with the apex pointing downwards. Before filling with soil, it is recommended to place moss on the boards as a filter.

Foundation drainage is necessary to protect the house when the groundwater level is high

However, such systems can behave unpredictably and the service life of drainage from scrap materials cannot be predicted.

For a more detailed look at the classic technology of creating drainage around your house with your own hands, use the video below. Only in this case will you be able to achieve truly high-quality, effective and durable results. By adhering to the technology requirements, you will receive a reliable drainage system, even if you create a crushed stone trench system without a pipeline.

The foundations of private houses require protection from excessive wetting, since precipitation and rising groundwater levels can lead to the destruction of monolithic foundations. In this regard, the question arises: how to properly make drainage around the house with your own hands. The opinion that with a blind area you can avoid excess moisture getting into the soil adjacent to the base is erroneous. Only the installation of a well-thought-out drainage system will protect the house without reference to the presence or absence of premises below ground level.

Installation of any type of drainage system around a residential building must necessarily begin with the design of all stages of work to create structures that facilitate the removal of excess moisture. To protect the foundation of the house and basements, the optimal solution would be to use wall drainage, which ensures complete removal of precipitation from the building.

If the groundwater is located quite high on the site, then the presence of waterproofing alone will in no way save you. In this case, sediment can be removed from the foundation of a residential building only by installing a well-thought-out drainage system.

If you approach the issue of creating an engineering structure in a comprehensive manner, you will need to complete the following scope of work:

1. By using quality materials, produce foundation waterproofing.
2. Install a system that can affect groundwater in terms of reducing its level ( drainage).
3. Mount surface drainage at home.

Types of drainage

When choosing a specific engineering structure for installation around a residential building, it should be taken into account that there are several types of such systems.

Wall-mounted

This type of drainage is required to be installed if the house has basements and basements. Installation of a wall watercourse is carried out along the perimeter of the foundation, which is preferably done at the excavation stage when building a house.

This approach eliminates unnecessary excavation work, and this in turn reduces the cost of installing the system and reduces labor costs.

Direct laying of drainage is carried out along the perimeter of the base of the building with pipes leading from its corners to inspection wells. The lowest located part of the system should be used to construct an outlet well in this place, which, from a functional point of view, will play the role of a storage tank for atmospheric precipitation with its further removal beyond the territory of the site.

To ensure a greater level of security, it is advisable to install a so-called clay castle at a distance of one meter from the home.

Trench

If the house is located on soil that is saturated with clay and has no basements or basements, then a trench drainage system known as a ring drainage system can be used. Such a drainage channel is laid at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the building.

Here, as in the previous case, it is assumed that a clay castle will be installed, the location of which should be determined by the space between the foundation and the drainage system.

It is important that the depth of the drains corresponds to a level located 0.5 m below the deepest point of the foundation. The pipes are laid on a layer of material that does not impede the passage of water, for example, crushed stone.

When is the best time to install drainage?

The most suitable time for installing systems designed to drain precipitation from the house is considered to be the summer period, starting from the 15th of July and ending in mid-August. The choice of this time is explained extremely simply: due to the peak of summer heat falling during the designated period, the groundwater level decreases.

Although you should not relax in this case, since no one can exclude force majeure circumstances. Therefore, it is worth making sure that you have a pump with which you can quickly pump out precipitation. Still, digging trenches brings you closer to underground waters, but does not remove you in any way. I would not like the rather labor-intensive process of installing an engineering structure to have to be repeated again, since water in the trenches can cause trouble.

Drainage scheme

In practice, drainage systems such as trench and wall are used. The choice of a specific implementation option for the varieties under consideration largely depends on the following factors: soil type, terrain, etc.

Which is also called ring, finds its application in those areas where sandy soil is present. In structure, it is a closed system that accumulates atmospheric precipitation in a collector with its further discharge into ravines and various reservoirs. Such a system cannot be installed closer than 5 m from the house, since failure to comply with this requirement may cause soil shrinkage, and this in turn will negatively affect the condition of the foundation.

Wall drainage used in the presence of other conditions compared to the trench system. In particular, it is used on soils with a high clay content and characterized by high groundwater levels.

The main elements of wall drainage are drains, that is, perforated pipes. In addition, such a structure consists of wells that serve as water storage tanks and inspection pits necessary to monitor the functioning of the system at the pipe connections and at the turning points of the water pipeline.

Wall drainage of a country house is a system consisting of pipes and other elements, which is a closed structure, the location of which is determined by the perimeter of the building at a distance of half a meter from the walls of the building.

If the terrain of the area does not allow installing drainage around a private house so that water is removed from the collector naturally, care must be taken to install pumping equipment.

Installation of wall drainage

If you have a desire to arrange a drainage system yourself, then know that this work can be done by anyone. Therefore, feel free to correct mistakes made during the construction of a house, since it is advisable to install drains at the stage of construction of a particular structure.

To put your plans into practice, you should understand the basics of creating the type of system in question, and then dig trenches and lay pipes. Water conduits, known as drains, must be placed at a certain slope in relation to the storage well, which should be approximately 2 degrees, starting from the highest point of the drainage system.

If we translate this into centimeters and linear meters, it turns out that for each specified pipe length there should be a 2 cm reduction.

When laying cylindrical products without bends, inspection wells should be installed at a distance of no more than 40 m. If water pipelines are expected to have turns, then such wells should be located at a distance of no more than 25 m from those places where such bends are observed.

The pipes are installed to a depth of 30 to 50 cm from the reference point, which is installed at the level of the lower base of the foundation. In this case, one more condition must be observed: the depth of the drainage system cannot be higher than the depth of soil freezing.

At the same time, the blind area being constructed must be wide enough to prevent water from entering the soil located between the house and the drainage system. The blind area should be perceived as a layer of thermal insulation, which helps reduce the depth of soil freezing and protect water pipelines.

Foundation waterproofing

Before installing the drainage, some preliminary work should be carried out to protect the base from water penetration. To do this you will need to do the following:

• apply geotextile fabric and then cover it with bitumen mastic;
• use roofing felt, which implies the obligatory construction of a so-called pressure wall made of bricks;
• apply sprayed waterproofing followed by its reinforcement with geotextiles.

Installation of drains

At this stage, you can begin installing water lines. Such a process involves quite labor-intensive work, including the following:

1. Initially, you need to dig a trench to lay drainage pipes. The long ditch must be located at a distance of at least 1 meter from the foundation, provided that it is located lower than the foundation of the house. Since it is assumed that a 110 mm perforated polymer pipe will be used to lay the drainage, the width of the trench must correspond to it. The cylindrical product should not be laid close to the walls of the ditch, as this will not allow backfilling with soil properly. It is necessary that there is at least 10 cm of free space on each side of the pipe.
2. The bottom of the trench must be leveled with a layer of sand 5 to 10 cm thick. At the same time, we should not forget that the bottom of the ditch must have a slope of 2 cm per 1 linear meter.
3. It is necessary to lay geotextiles on the resulting sand layer so that the edges of the fabric touch the walls of the trench, where they need to be securely fastened.
4. The next layer should be gravel - from 10 to 15 cm.
5. Then you can proceed directly to the installation of drains installed with a slope in the direction of the well.
6. Another layer of gravel of the same thickness as below is poured on top of the laid pipes, that is, from 10 to 15 cm.
7. The top of the building material is covered with a geotextile sheet, the ends of which are secured.
8. At the last drain, installed at a distance of at least 5 meters from the house, a water receiver is installed.
9. The area under the sediment collection tank is lined with geotextiles that cover the bottom and walls. Then a plastic container is placed here, with holes made in the bottom, which is preferable to other solutions.
10. A tank with openings must be firmly secured, since heaving forces can simply squeeze it out. At the last stage of work, this structure is necessarily covered with gravel and laid on top of a layer of soil.

Caring for the wall drainage system

For the full functioning of this type of artificially created watercourse, it should be regularly inspected at least once a month. This refers to control over wells that may become contaminated, which involves mandatory cleaning of them from debris.

In spring and autumn, these types of checks must be carried out more often, since during these periods of the year there is usually a lot of rain. In spring, snow melts, which provokes the appearance of large amounts of meltwater. Here it is already necessary to clean not only the drainage system itself, but also the storm sewer.

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