Installation and connection of the dishwasher can be divided into 3 stages:

• preparation and securing of built-in equipment in a special niche

• connection to the electrical network

• connection to water supply and sewerage

Let us consider in detail, indicating common errors, precisely the stages of installation to utility networks and communications.

Electrical connection

To connect the dishwasher to a 220V network, you will not need many materials:

A dishwasher (DMM) is not a particularly powerful consumer of electricity, such as a hob (from 7 kW and above). Its power usually does not exceed 2.0-2.5 kW.

Modern energy consumption models correspond to class “A” or “A+”. That is, in a year, approximately 220 kW will run on your meter.

Despite this, it is still advisable to connect the PMM at the repair stage to lay an independent cable line in a separate groove.

If your renovation has been completed a long time ago, and after purchasing the equipment you don’t feel like scratching the walls again and ruining the wallpaper, then you can make do with the existing outlet. Just be sure to make sure that it is protected by an RCD.

Connecting a dishwasher through a simple modular machine is extremely dangerous.

The socket should be placed at a convenient height - up to 90cm from the floor level.

At the same time, place it on the right or left side of the washing machine, but not behind it.

Please also take into account the fact that the total length of the cord with plug for this equipment rarely exceeds 1.0-1.5 m. Based on this, choose a place for the outlet so that you don’t have to use an extension cord later.

The outlet itself must, of course, be grounded. But not everyone has this same grounding. Especially in apartments in old high-rise buildings.
Therefore, many people use regular ones, and everything seems to work fine. However, the level of protection will no longer be sufficient.

Roughly speaking, if there is a grounding contact and there is a current leak, then you will not even be able to turn on the RCD. The consequences of these leaks, even small ones, can be quite lethal.

With a simple socket, the shutdown will occur only at the moment when you touch the body, which is already energized.

And you will still feel this electric shock, at least at the initial moment.

Connection to water supply and sewerage

Connecting the dishwasher to the water supply can be done in two ways.

The first is when you are at the stage of construction or major renovation, and you can afford to lay separate pipes, trench walls, etc.

The second is when your entire kitchen has already been installed and all finishing work has been completed. At the same time, you bought a dishwasher and you need to connect it all somewhere, to the existing water supply and sewerage system with minimal alterations and hassle.

Installation of new pipes

For major installation you will need a varied range of materials:

When installing pipes, the socket method is used. To do this, you will need a special apparatus for soldering polypropylene pipes.

The total length of the pipe and the number of fittings are selected individually. This depends on how far the dishwasher is from the cold water collector.

To begin with, mark the route where the pipes will be laid from the distribution manifold to the installation site of the PMM.

Then, use a wall chaser to cut to the required depth.

Next, connect the PPR connectors with a union nut to one of the manifold outputs.

Cut a piece of pipe so that it will last until the first turn or corner. At the same time, do not forget to leave a margin of 15mm for connections on each side.

Connect the pipe and fittings using the soldering method, controlling the position of the elbow.

After connecting all the pipes along the marked area, install a water socket at the very end. Be sure to fix it on the wall.

Next, screw a ¾-inch male threaded elbow into the water socket.

Mount the water supply hose onto the angle.

The AquaControl or AquaStop system with which it may be equipped should protect against leaks in the event of a breakdown and automatically stop the water supply.

Turn on the water and check the entire system. If everything is fine, you can finally seal the groove.

Drain connection and installation in the kitchen opening

All that remains is to connect the drain hose from the PMM to the sewer outlet through an adapter collar of the appropriate diameter.

Do not forget that the drain pipe must be mounted at an angle, allowing for a 1cm height difference per 1m of length.

And the drain hose itself has a bend at 70cm from the floor. That is why it is attached to the top of the dishwasher, and not at all so that it does not dangle.

All that remains is to connect the washing machine to a power outlet and check the functionality of the entire system. Then secure it in a specially prepared opening.

By the way, some models, for example from Siemens, have non-standard sizes. Therefore, think about your kitchen furniture in advance.

When installing in an opening, do not forget about the metal plate that must be nailed to the bottom of the tabletop (for the Bosch model).

This thing is mounted at the very edge and is a vapor barrier, like a screen. With it, the countertop will not swell from steam.

For some reason, many people throw it out and replace it with aluminum tape, securing it both to the table top and to the side walls of the car.

Electrolux, instead, comes with something like a piece of rubber that sticks on the sticky side.

After installation and connection, the first wash should be done without dishes, using powder or special cleaning tablets.

This procedure should destroy all bacteria and deposits formed after long-term storage in the store.

Connection via sink siphon and faucet.

There is a simpler option for connecting a dishwasher, in which there is no need to install separate pipes for draining and supplying water.

You only need to change two things:

It differs in that its design already has a place for connecting the drain hose - a fitting, and sometimes two.

You can, of course, redo the sewer drain by installing an additional pipe and seal there.

The whole thing is inserted by hand, without using any special tools.

However, do not forget that connecting dishwashers and washing machines directly to the sewer pipe may be accompanied by the appearance of unpleasant odors.

Experts advise making this connection through a check valve.

Kinking or bending the hose at a height, which should act as an alternative to the valve, only helps with constant use of the equipment. Of course, your water will not return.

However, if the system stands for a couple of weeks without work and water (for example, in a country house or in a country house), everything will dry out and the stench in the kitchen will be very sensitive.

Through it, the water itself will flow into the machine. It is installed instead of the standard connector going from cold water to the mixer.

Screw this tee to the cold water supply hose or pipe.

Next, change the siphon. Unscrew the screw from above, holding the siphon itself from below so that it does not fall.

Disconnect the drain from the sewer. To do this, simply pull it towards you with force. It should come out of the rubber retainer.

Assemble a new siphon from the components, not forgetting the gaskets, and install it in place of the old one.

Connect the flexible drain pipe to the sewer pipe. All that remains is to connect the dishwasher drain hose to the siphon tube through a special adapter.

Included with this adapter, be sure to look for a valve, it blocks the reverse flow of water.

Fill the sink with water and check that there are no leaks anywhere.

Errors and rules

1 Connect the dishwasher in the 220V panel from the machine.

Remember that all equipment and devices in your house and apartment that are interconnected with water and electricity - a boiler, instantaneous water heater, washing machine, including a dishwasher - must be connected through:

There shouldn’t be any simple modular machines, much less traffic jams, here. Reliability of protection and your safety in the event of an electrical breakdown of the wiring should come first.

2 Installation of the dishwasher very close to the wall.

As a result, the supply or drain hoses may become pinched, impairing water circulation. An error will constantly appear on the display.

And you won’t even guess why. Therefore, the minimum distance from the wall should be at least 5cm.

3 The machine must be on a level surface.

If the installation is uneven, you will have problems with the quality of washing dishes. There may even be a water leak.

For example, Electrolux models allow a deviation from the horizontal of no more than 2 degrees. This whole thing is checked at the building level.

And it is regulated by twisting and twisting the legs.

The back leg of most models is adjustable from the front. Using a special screw in the lower central part.

When adjusting the legs, according to the instructions, the machine must be raised to the maximum so that there are no gaps left between it and the table top.

4 Installation of a 220V socket under the sink.

Although this may seem like the closest and most convenient place to connect the power plug, try to avoid this type of connection.

The slightest blockage and subsequent leakage guarantees a short circuit and fire. For the same reason, it is not recommended to place the extension cord directly behind the dishwasher.

If the factory cord is not enough to reach a stationary outlet, then connect the carrier away from the hoses, at the greatest possible distance.

5 Connection to hot water.

Remember that not every PMM can be connected to a hot water supply system. Be sure to read the instructions, otherwise the device will fail much earlier than its warranty period.

In addition, the water temperature in this system may be higher than that for which the sink is designed (usually no more than 60 degrees). Even if it supports such a connection.

Also keep in mind that the hot water in our pipes is dirtier than cold water. Therefore, experts recommend connecting to cold water.

It makes sense to connect to a hot one only if you have your own heating and a gas boiler. Otherwise, it will be a penny saving on electricity, which will ruin an expensive dishwasher. 6 Extending the water supply hose.

It may well happen that the factory hose, which has a standard length of no more than 1.5 meters, is not enough for you. Therefore, you will have to buy more footage.

The most important thing is not to bite off, unscrew or throw away the main one. It can come with leak protection.

Wires are hidden inside it and when a break occurs, a short circuit occurs and the valve installed at the end automatically shuts off the supply.

Therefore, when lengthening, simply extend the existing one.

7 Flax for thread sealing

If you are not a plumber and do not know how to properly and in what quantity flax is wound to seal threaded connections, then it is better for you not to use it.

You may encounter this when reworking the connection of the dishwasher to the siphon and installing a tee for the cold water supply.

If used in excess, the flax will eventually swell and the flimsy union nut may burst, ultimately leading to a flood.

In such places it is better to use a factory rubber gasket or fum tape.

Installing and connecting the dishwasher requires care and precision. After all, incorrect connection of a complex electrical appliance can not only cause incorrect operation of the machine, water leakage, but also cause electric shock to a person. The easiest way to connect a “dishwasher” is to resort to the services of a competent technician. If you have the desire and time, you can install the dishwasher yourself, saving money and personally making sure that everything is done efficiently and safely.

Let's preface the story about how to install a dishwasher (DMM) with a banal but important statement: a mandatory document for the installer, which must be studied very carefully before starting work - the installation instructions. The dishwasher must be connected to the water supply, sewerage and power supply, respectively. manufacturer's requirements. Most modern household dishwashers are connected using similar circuits, but machines of different types and brands have their own characteristics that must be taken into account both during installation and operation.

If preparation for installing a PMM is carried out at the stage of kitchen renovation, when it is not yet known which specific model will be chosen, it is advisable to first determine the type of machine. First of all, with its dimensions and type of water supply. Of course, you can always redo something locally, but this is an extra waste of time and money.

Always study the installation and operating instructions for complex household appliances, they contain all the necessary information

It is advisable to think about the location of the dishwasher in advance. It is better to do this at the stage of kitchen renovation, if one is planned. In this case, you can fit the car into the furniture set in advance, making it convenient and aesthetically pleasing.

Having decided on the location, type (preferably with a specific model) of the PMM, its dimensions, it will not be a problem to provide for the competent supply of all necessary communications, which will significantly simplify the installation of furniture and equipment. You can also purchase a dishwasher after assembling the furniture, the main thing is to reserve a place for it and supply electricity, water and sewerage.

We recommend placing the PMM in an adjacent cabinet with a sink. Firstly, it is convenient: the shorter the distance between the sink, dishwasher, dryer, cabinets for storing plates and cutlery, the less tired the housewife will be. Secondly, the cabinet under the sink, which, as a rule, does not have a back wall, is the best place to place communication terminals for the dishwasher. Good access is provided for work; in case of repairs, the machine can be quickly switched off.

The space in the cabinet under the sink is the best place in the kitchen to place additional equipment, including PMM leads and connections

Thinking through everything in advance is ideal, but it is not always possible. We will try to tell you not only how a dishwasher is built into a kitchen at the furniture assembly stage, but also how to build a dishwasher into a finished kitchen, where you need to make do with a minimum of alterations.

Connecting the PMM to utilities

In order to ensure a safe connection of the dishwasher to the electrical network, it is recommended to follow these rules:

• Extensions and tees cannot be used; a separate socket must be equipped for the PMM. It should be made close to the machine in such a way that, if necessary, the plug can be quickly removed from the plug. There are recommendations to place sockets for equipment below the level of the cabinets, in the baseboard area. We consider this solution not the best and recommend making an outlet in the cabinet under the sink, at a height of 25-40 cm from the floor. It’s easier and faster to remove disturbing objects from the closet than to reach out to a far-off plug in a tight space.

• It is advisable to run a separate copper three-core electrical cable with a cross-section of at least 3x2.5 mm2 from the panel to the socket for the PMM, installing an RCD or a 16 A circuit breaker on this line (for some small-sized models, a cable with a cross-section of 3x2 mm2 and a 10 A circuit breaker is sufficient).

What should you do if you need to build a dishwasher into a finished kitchen where renovations have already been done and it is not possible to lay a separate cable? You can connect the dishwasher to a group of sockets along with not very powerful electrical appliances: a microwave, an electric kettle, a refrigerator. It is strictly forbidden to connect the PMM on the same line with an electric stove. If there are problems with installing the machine on the panel, it can be placed directly in front of the outlet or group of them.

• If there are noticeable (more than 10%) deviations from the standard voltage of 220–240 V in the supply network, it is recommended to install a voltage stabilizer on the power line.

• The socket must have a grounding contact connected. However, not every apartment or private house has grounding.

Correct power supply for household appliances is a matter of not only comfort, but also safety

Electrical connection without grounding

What should those who do not have a third, grounding conductor in their electrical wiring do?

It’s easiest for owners of a private home. They have the opportunity to make a grounding loop near the house by connecting the electrical network to it. How is a topic for a separate discussion, but this is not such a difficult task, and the presence of a circuit with proper wiring will make the entire electrical system safe.

It is more difficult for residents of apartment buildings. Perhaps there is still grounding in the building, but it is not connected to the apartment. Grounding, as a rule, is present in those buildings where there are elevators, heating points with alluvial groups, and shops on the ground floors. The third wire may not be on the apartment panel, but if it is present in the house, it is possible to bring it into the apartment. This work can be performed by an electrician of the operating organization.

It’s worse if the building has no grounding at all. As an alternative, the third wire is brought out to the neutral strip in the panel, but this does not fully solve the issue. It is more correct to run a separate two-wire line from the panel to the machine, installing an RCD on it. In the event of a breakdown, a person may receive a short-term electric shock to the body, but the protective device will turn off the power.

Those who do not understand electricians and do not know how to properly supply power to home electrical equipment should not try to do the work themselves; it is better to invite a specialist.

Option for connecting an RCD to separate lines without grounding

Cold water supply

The water supply network must meet the following parameters: pressure from 0.5 bar (0.05 MPa) to 10 bar (1 MPa), the amount of water supplied is at least 10 l/min. As a rule, the networks comply with these parameters, but there are exceptions. If the pressure is lower than required (these are private houses), you will need to install a pump that increases the pressure. If the pressure is higher (these are the lower floors of some multi-storey buildings) - a reduction gear.

A coarse mesh filter must be installed at the water supply inlet into an apartment or house; a fine filter is preferable. If it is not possible to install a filter at the entrance to the apartment, this must be done in front of the machine.

It does not matter how the outlet for the dishwasher will be routed: a separate pipe or through a tee from the water supply to the mixer. The main thing is that the flow can be turned off with a tap and that the latter is easily accessible.

Be sure to install a shut-off valve at the water outlet

To avoid having to fiddle with adapters when connecting a hose, it is advisable to immediately select a faucet with the “correct” connection. For equipment officially supplied to the Russian Federation, the parameters are as follows: external thread, diameter ¾ inches, length at least 10 mm.

If the outlet is located far away, the short water supply hose can be extended, but not by extension, but by replacing it with a longer one. If we are talking about installing a used PMM, we recommend replacing the water supply hose with a new one. Make sure that the hose is not kinked or twisted.

Installation of a built-in Bosch dishwasher (all modern models, with the exception of some compact ones) and some PMMs from a number of other companies initially provide protection against water supply leakage in the event of a hose rupture or other malfunction. In such models, the AquaStop system device is included in the kit and is installed on the water supply tap in front of the hose. AquaStop only works when the power is on. You can also install devices that prevent water leakage on other equipment by purchasing them separately.

Today there are many leakage protection devices on sale; they can be installed both on individual equipment and on the entire water supply system as a whole.

Is it possible to connect a dishwasher to hot water and save on it?

The dishes are washed with hot water, so the cold ones are heated to the desired temperature by the heating element built into the device. And electricity costs money. If an electric boiler heats hot water in the house, there is no difference whether it is prepared in an electric water heater or directly in the PMM. But when the apartment has hot water supply or in a private house “cheap” water is prepared by a gas boiler, it is not practical to waste electricity heating cold water in the dishwasher. Is it possible to immediately supply hot water to the PMM, saving a significant amount? It is possible, but not in all models and with a number of reservations:

• If hot water is prepared by a flow-through gas water heater or a double-circuit gas boiler, connecting a PMM to it is excluded. Only centralized hot water supply, a combination of a single-circuit gas boiler with a storage boiler, and a storage gas water heater can be considered.

• It is necessary to inspect the water supply hose from the machine. If there is, among others, the inscription “25ºC” on it, you can only connect cold water.

• You should carefully study the instructions for the PMM. If there are no temperature-limiting markings on the hose, the manual will probably say something like “maximum water temperature 60ºC, cold water connection preferred.” Preferably cold - does not mean that the device will fail if it is hot. It’s just that the built-in temperature sensor, which is designed for cold water, may incorrectly determine the temperature of the warm water entering it and not turn on reheating if necessary. The manufacturer means that he is not responsible if, when you connect the machine to hot water, sometimes your dishes are not washed clean enough.

Now about the 60ºC limit. If we are talking about preparing water using a “single-circuit gas boiler + boiler” combination, it is enough to set the maximum temperature on the automatic water heating control system to no higher than the specified value. The temperature of hot water from a centralized water supply, as a rule, does not exceed 60ºC. If it is higher, the PMM can be connected through a mixer with a thermostat.

Organization of drainage into the sewer system

During repairs, a separate drain can be removed for the dishwasher. It does not matter where the pipe is laid and removed: in the wall or floor. A number of conditions must be met:

• At the entrance of the pipe to the sewer system, in order to avoid the appearance of an unpleasant odor, it is necessary to place a water seal, since it is absent in the PMM. You can use a standard siphon for a washbasin, assemble a water seal yourself from three 90º sewer angles and one piece of straight pipe, or purchase a special siphon designed for washing machines and dishwashers. It is compact and can be external or intended for recessing.

Concealed siphon (in the wall), for dishwashers and washing machines

• If the sewer pipe is laid in the wall, the vertical distance between the connection point of the drain hose and the entrance of the water seal into the wall must be no less than that specified in the instructions, usually 20-30 cm.

• The inlet for connecting the hose should be located no higher than 60-80 cm, depending on the model. It is better lower, at a level of about 50 cm from the floor.

• The drain hose is designed for connection to the socket of a sewer pipe with a diameter of 40 mm; connection to a 50 mm pipe occurs through a rubber adapter.

If the dishwasher is not located very far from the cabinet with the sink, it is easier to connect it to the siphon from the sink. This is an even more rational solution when a dishwasher is installed in a finished kitchen and it is not possible to redo the sewer system. Many modern sinks already have a special siphon outlet for the drain hose from the dishwasher; you just need to fix it. If there is no outlet, you can purchase it separately.

After the drain hose is put on the siphon outlet, it is advisable to secure it with a crimp clamp

The drain hose must be bent smoothly, without kinks, and fixed slightly above the mark for its connection to the sewer. For this purpose, the kit includes a bracket for wall mounting. The top of the bend should not be higher than 60-80 cm and lower than 40-50 cm from the floor level, depending on the model. If the standard hose is not long enough, it can be extended or replaced, but the total length should not exceed 3 m.

How to integrate a dishwasher into kitchen furniture

We talked about communications, now we’ll talk about how to install a dishwasher into furniture yourself. PMMs differ both in size and in the type of installation into furniture. Let's look at the installation features of different types of dishwashers:

Freestanding dishwashers

The freestanding model, as the name suggests, can stand alone, next to furniture, under a common work surface. Its lid can be used as a tabletop, however, it should be taken into account that the heat resistance of plastic is lower than that of laminate. But if a free-standing PMM needs to be installed in a row of furniture, under a common work surface, how to install a dishwasher under the countertop?

There are two options: the first is to lower the adjusting feet to the minimum height and try to see if the machine fits under the table top. Probably yes. If not, proceed to plan B: remove the top cover. Depending on the model, this requires unscrewing four screws on the sides or two at the back, but it’s better to look at the instructions. The PMM with the cover removed is guaranteed to fit under the countertop, provided that the working surface has a standard height of at least 85 cm. Having installed the machine in place, we connect the communications, open the valve, and make sure that there is no water leakage.

Video: connection and installation under the countertop of a free-standing model

Built-in dishwashers

How to install a built-in dishwasher? A full-size dishwasher, unlike other built-in kitchen appliances (ovens, microwaves, refrigerators), is not placed inside a special cabinet. The built-in dishwasher is installed in the space between the cabinets. The niche width is 45 or 60 cm, depending on the dimensions of the machine. The size must be maintained very precisely; the side walls of the cabinets must be strictly vertical.

It is better to install the tabletop after installing the PMM. After the water hose, drain and electrical cable are laid under the base and behind the cabinets to the connection point, the machine is placed on the floor and pushed into a niche. Using adjustable legs, it is raised to the level with the cabinets of the lower row and set vertically.

Once the built-in machine is installed in a row of cabinets, adjusting the rear legs becomes problematic. In many models it is located on the front of the body

Installation of a built-in dishwasher involves fixing its body to the side walls of adjacent cabinets and the countertop. But we advise you to take your time and hang the furniture door first. How to install the front on a dishwasher is described in detail in the instructions; there is also a special template with which you can mark the holes for attaching the fasteners on the back of the front. The latches fit into grooves on the car door. Having installed the furniture facade, the PMM must be aligned with the facades of the remaining cabinets. Now you can attach its body to the adjacent cabinets and install the tabletop.

The procedure for hanging a furniture front on the door of a built-in dishwasher

If the space under the cabinets is closed with a plinth, you may have to make a cutout in the dishwasher area. Otherwise, the door may rest against the plinth when opening. To what height to cut will have to be determined locally; it depends on how much the legs of the device are raised when adjusting. After the installation is completed, the 45 cm or 60 cm built-in dishwasher is connected to the communications.

Video: installing a built-in dishwasher in furniture

Compact models

Compact models also come in two types: free-standing and built-in in a cabinet.

The first type is free-standing PMM with a width of 55 cm, a depth of 50 cm and a height of up to 45 cm; this model can be installed inside a lower cabinet 60 cm wide and there will still be one free shelf there. Or put it on a countertop, a wide window sill, or a low refrigerator. The machine is lightweight, does not vibrate during operation, you do not need to fasten it, just connect it to communications.

The compact dishwasher, 55 cm wide and 50 cm deep, fits into the cabinet under the sink along with a filtration system and still has room for household items

Another type of compact appliance is a built-in dishwasher, the dimensions of which allow it to be installed inside a cabinet. In terms of dimensions, compact built-in ovens are identical to built-in ovens and are mounted in standard cabinets 60 cm wide (the opening is 56 cm wide) intended for them. Like ovens, there are two sizes of dishwashers: full height (60 cm high opening) and low (45 cm opening). You can either build the dishwasher under the countertop or install it in a tall cabinet.

The door of the compact built-in PMM has a front surface; there is no need to install a furniture façade on it. The machine body is fixed to the cabinets, communications are connected according to the standard scheme.

Video: installation options for the Bosch SCE 53M25EU compact dishwasher

On the one hand, installing a dishwasher is not a very difficult task and can be done independently if you have basic knowledge of electrical supply and plumbing. On the other hand, incorrect connection of communications can be fraught with serious troubles. Particular attention should be paid to the electrical part, this is a safety issue. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the installation of PMM in an apartment or house to professionals. You, of course, will pay for the service, but you will save your time and protect your nervous system.

Any master knows how to connect a dishwasher. You can do this yourself, without the help of specialists. The installation instructions and our article will help you.

What you need to connect a dishwasher yourself

For installation you will need a standard kit:

• Pliers, pliers, screwdriver, adjustable wrench, wrench.
• Electrical tape, sealant, waterproofing tape (“fumka”).
• Siphon for connecting the drain to the sewer (if you want to connect the washing machine and dishwasher at the same time - with 2 fittings).
• Ball valve for shutting off water.
• Tee fitting made of brass, copper, bronze with ¾ inch thread for connection to the water supply.
• Coarse water filter.
• Level (to check the tilt of the PMM - the norm is 2 degrees).
• Tubes for extending the drain hose (if you need to increase the length).
• Grounded outlet, 16 amp circuit breaker.

Having prepared everything you need and read the instructions, we proceed according to plan:

1. Deciding on the dishwasher space.
2. We connect the PMM to the water supply and sewerage.
3. Connect to the power supply.
4. Let's start the test cycle.
5. Let's put things in order.
6. Never wash dishes by hand again.

Where to put the dishwasher?

Most models chose a place in the kitchen, near the sink. This is logical: communications are nearby, you don’t have to carry dirty dishes far, it’s very convenient and hygienic. A compact model, such as the tabletop Indesit, can be placed on the countertop near the sink.

The tabletop machine connects to a water tap and drains water directly into the sink.

A free-standing modification, such as Hansa, does not cause any trouble during installation.

It can be placed near the sink, hidden under the countertop, in a cabinet, to save space.

A built-in machine (Siemens brand in the photo) can be placed in a kitchen unit and disguised with a harmonious facade.

To place and fix the built-in model in the closet, you will have to make holes in the walls of the furniture for fastenings and communications. Special stencils will help. They come with a dishwasher.

Having decided on a workplace, let's get down to the fun part.

Setting up the drainage system

In the kitchen, under the sink there is a siphon. To connect the drain hose, remove the plug and screw it to the vacated hole. If you install a dishwasher and washing machine together, you will need a special siphon with two fittings: each unit has one drain. The standard length of the drainage hose is 1.5 meters. It is easy to add length to it if necessary. Secure the joint with clamps. Wrap it with foam and treat it with sealant so that the hoses are not blown away by the pressure.

Connection to water supply

First of all, turn off the water supply. To establish a water supply, you will need a tee. It should be screwed where the “cold” pipe connects to the kitchen faucet. This leaves a free connection for the dishwasher. Tees and adapters come in different types and sizes. They are made from different materials: plastic, brass, copper, bronze.

Choose a durable stainless steel compound and follow the threads of the inlet hose. A ball valve can be screwed in between the tee and the filler tube to stop the water in an emergency.

If you connect the washing machine at the same time, instead of a tee, purchase a quadruple plus an additional shut-off valve for the washing machine.

Do not connect household appliances to hot water. This is not as economical as it might seem at first glance. Boilers and water heaters spend more resources on heating water than PMMs, and the machine can break down due to inappropriate temperatures.

Electrical connection

For a low-power machine, connecting to the nearest outlet is suitable. An ideal option for any dishwasher is a separate socket with grounding, a separate cable, and an individual 16-amp RCD.

For safety reasons, it is advisable that the outlet be protected from moisture. If you use an extension cord, do not leave it on the floor; a leak may cause a short circuit.

Trial run

Having connected the unit to all communications, do not rush to operate it. Run test mode without cookware. For example, the shortest cycle. During operation, check all connections for leaks. Additional tape or sealant may be required. If everything is fine, congratulations! You did all the work yourself.

Connecting a stove, dishwasher and oven

The 2 in 1, 3 in 1 hybrid appliances are deservedly popular - because they save such valuable space. Features of connecting such equipment depend on its type. The dishwasher part is connected according to the diagram described above. An electric hob and oven will require additional outlets. If the oven or stove is gas, contact the gas service. Carrying out such work yourself is very dangerous.

The first attempt to create such a familiar and desirable kitchen appliance as a dishwasher was made by American engineer and inventor Joel Goughton back in 1850.

The implementation “in metal” left much to be desired, and was buried under the cloth of the patent office for 36 long years. The first working copy was released in Chicago and was intended for the army, hotels and large restaurants.

Photo: antique dishwasher

Over time, the element base was improved, the machine significantly decreased in size, acquired an electric drive and a water heating system, and acquired other useful automation.

Will this article be useful to those home craftsmen who prefer to gain new experience? than calling a home appliance service technician.

First of all, you need to make sure that the delivery service did not damage the car during transportation. To do this, it is enough to shake the packaged unit before signing the documents for receiving the cargo.

There should be nothing creaking, knocking or rolling around inside the package. Any sounds coming through the layer of packaging material indicate that the dishwasher was not properly prepared for transportation, resulting in breakage or displacement of internal parts. It is better to refuse to accept such cargo.

Photo: check for integrity upon purchase

The dishwasher connection instructions are spread out on the floor, and the trusty toolbox is under the right arm. Households cautiously peer through the doors, preparing to enjoy the spectacle of the Master’s work.

Required Tools

On the difficult journey to the first batch of sparkling plates and saucers, which the grateful wife will remove from the belly of the machine, the following tools will help the master:

• a set of screwdrivers or one, with replaceable heads, for dismantling locking bolts, safety brackets, as well as for power supply and connection to water supply and sewerage systems;
• a universal adjustable wrench or a standard set from a plumber’s suitcase (for connecting to communications and installing a shut-off valve);
• a drill with a manual drive, or better yet, an electric one. After all, you will definitely need to drill a couple of holes;
• electrician's knife

Photo: tool set

Having thought it over again and making sure that the decision to connect the dishwasher with your own hands is stronger than ever, you can begin to implement your plan.

Photo: dishwasher connection diagram

Connection to water supply

The easiest way to drain cold water is from the line serving the kitchen sink.

Photo: connecting the incoming water hose to the solenoid valve

As a rule, the kit includes a standard one and a half meter hose for connecting cold water supply.

If necessary, it can be lengthened, but it is best to use a single piece of the required length. After all, any connection, no matter how reliable it may seem, is always an area of ​​risk.

Based on the realities of the domestic water supply, it is strongly recommended to install a removable filter at the entrance to the machine.

Photo: electronic valve

Additional financial investments will pay off handsomely, since the thin “insides” of the dishwasher will not become clogged with sand and rust that appears from time to time in the water flowing from the tap.

Installing a shut-off valve, preferably of a ball design, is the main safety measure when using dishwashers that are not equipped with a forced water shut-off system (AquaStop, Aqua-Control and the like).

Manually shutting off the access of water to an idle machine is guaranteed to protect against possible leaks and damage associated with them.

Photo: connection to the water supply

Connecting to hot water theoretically allows you to save energy used by the dishwasher for heating.

However, in our realities, the water circulating in the centralized heating and water supply system contains a large amount of mechanical impurities, which will negatively affect the service life of the kitchen unit.

In houses and apartments equipped with gas boilers, not electricity, but gas will be consumed to heat water, and it is not a fact that in smaller quantities.

How to connect a dishwasher to the sewer

Based on the already discussed conditions of the problem, namely, that the machine is installed next to the kitchen sink, the easiest way is to organize the drainage of used water into the sink siphon.

Photo: correct outlet and connection of the dishwasher drain

To create another drain point, you can use plumbing tees that screw onto an existing siphon.

But it would be more correct to use a special siphon equipped with. This design will prevent the dishwasher from “sucking up” dirty water from the sewer.

Photo: sewer connection

A more complex option is to directly connect the drain to the sewer.

Important! The connection point must be at least 40 centimeters below the level of the machine. Otherwise, the same “suction” is inevitable.

Photo: parts and assembly of a special siphon for a dishwasher
Photo: connecting the siphon to the sewer pipe and to the pipe coming from the machine

As an additional measure, you can use a homemade siphon made from a pipe bent in the shape of the letter S and an “air gap” device.

Electrical connection

Photo: correct (left) and incorrect (right) connection to the 220 V lighting network

For this stage, it is necessary to organize a separate socket with a three-core copper wire, the cross-sectional area of ​​which is at least 2 mm/sq.

Photo: practical connection to an outlet

Important! The unit must be grounded. Installing the dishwasher using tees or extensions is strictly prohibited.

High power consumption is guaranteed to lead to a short circuit and failure, and in the worst case, fire of such connections.

Photo: connecting wires, connect black to black - phase, white to white - neutral and green - ground to green.

As an additional safety measure, it is recommended to install a separate sixteen-amp circuit breaker. If the power threshold of 3.6 kilowatts is exceeded, it will turn off the power, maintaining the functionality of the machine.

Functionality check

When the last screw is tightened, the water is connected and the drain is organized, it is time for the last stage of installation. Functionality check.

Without putting dishes in the machine, the master equips the corresponding compartments with detergent and restoring salt. Connects the power supply and opens the cold water ball valve.

What you should pay attention to when test running the machine:

• for the absence of leaks at the joints of hoses (or pipes) of water supply and drainage systems;
• on the speed of water intake;
• on the rate of water heating;
• to operate the machine in drying mode.

If all test points are passed successfully, the machine is ready to receive the first portion of dishes.

It should also be understood that in addition to the function of checking the correctness and tightness of all connections, during a test run the internal parts of the unit are cleaned of preservative lubricants, dirt and dust accumulated after manufacturing.

Video: Installation (installation) and connection

Special cases of connecting a dishwasher

This section describes atypical dishwasher connection problems and how to solve them.

Built-in dishwasher

The main feature of installing this type of machine is the correct choice of location. It should be located no further than one and a half meters from the drain connection point.

This limitation is imposed by the power of the drain pump. With constant overload, it will quickly fail. For the rest, you can be guided by the above material.

Video: Installation

Tabletop (compact) dishwasher

Compact models of dishwashers initially imply the absence of a permanent installation location. In this case, it makes no sense to organize permanent points for supplying cold water and draining waste water.

It is easier to use a flexible hose and adapter to draw water directly from the kitchen sink faucet. The drainage is carried out into it using the same flexible hose.

Another difference during installation is the requirement of manufacturers to use only a cold water supply connection.

Without grounding

Important! Such a connection is not permitted by the operating instructions and deprives the owner of the right to warranty repairs or replacement of faulty equipment. It also poses an electric shock and increased risk of fire.

Photo: additional wiring of the ground wire ground wire

No running water

This question interests all owners of private country and village houses, the water supply of which is carried out through a well.

The trick is that for the machine to work properly, a certain amount of water pressure is required at the inlet valve.

This can be achieved in at least two ways:

• method one– purchase a pumping station and a 200 liter tank. The station pumps water from the tank under pressure, the machine works. The tank is filled manually, or using the same pumping station;
read here.

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Calling a professional technician and installing the machine if you have ready-made communications (water supply, drain siphon and electricity) will cost an average of 1500 rubles.

A complete connection, providing for communications and installation of missing equipment, will take as long as 3000 rubles.
The materials themselves cost about 1000 rubles.

Video: help with choosing

Who doesn't dream of a dishwasher? It helps you quickly cope with the kitchen routine, and avoid the standard family dilemma: “who goes to wash the dishes?” If you are going to buy such a “helper”, you should think about how the dishwasher is installed. Today I will describe in detail the algorithm for these actions so that you can connect the unit yourself.

Selecting a location and purchasing components

One of the most pressing problems for installing kitchen appliances is small-sized kitchens. The dishwasher is no exception, most likely the opposite - it requires a little more effort, since it needs to be connected to both water and electricity.

Often, when ordering a complete kitchen, most projects also allocate space for a dishwasher. If there is no such place, then you can organize it yourself by choosing a model that is suitable for installation on a table or has a universal design.

In this case, you need to consider how to connect the drainage system, water supply and electricity, so calculate the dimensions and all options in advance.

Electrical connection

We all know the basic safety requirements when working with electrical appliances, and they fully apply to the installation of a dishwasher, with some nuances.

First of all, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the device should only be connected to a European socket, because it has good grounding. Standard sockets without grounding are absolutely not suitable for installation.

If it is not possible to provide grounding, grounding can be done by connecting the grounding wire to the neutral. Are you the owner of “Soviet” sockets? Then contact a professional to replace them.

They will be able to bring a new, grounded outlet to the required level (25-35 cm above the floor), as well as make an additional one with a tap through a circuit breaker. In the diagram you can see with your own eyes the recommended position of the electrical wiring and connection of the machine.

Selection of tools

Despite some complexity in installing the dishwasher, we only need two tools: a screwdriver and pliers. You also need to take a roll of any electrical tape with which you can wrap the threads before tightening.

As a consumable, it is worth buying waterproofing tape, which will provide waterproof connections; its price is low.

But you will need to spend money on a water system, and I recommend buying the following components:

1. Brass or bronze tee, with ¾ inch thread. I strongly advise against buying silumin, as it has poor resistance to crystalline corrosion.. Because of this, it can simply disintegrate, forming a serious leak.

1. Drain siphon with two or one fitting. A double fitting is necessary for those who do not have an automatic washing machine. You can connect two drains to it simultaneously, both a washing machine and a dishwasher. If you do not plan to install a “washing machine” in the kitchen, or already have a separate drain for it, buy a siphon with one fitting.

1. Ball type shut-off valve. Suitable from any material except silumin.

1. Coarse water filter. It is not required, but if you want your dishwasher to last for a long time, I recommend that you install it too. Poorly treated water can cause serious damage. The same problem exists in foreign countries, so the filter is one of the important elements.

1. Additional metal-plastic henka. If the machine is installed far from the sink, and a standard hanka is not enough, then we purchase a new one of the required length.

This concludes the list of components, and we move on to the DIY installation process itself.

Installing a “helper” in the kitchen

I will describe all the stages in the necessary sequence. If you follow them, installing and connecting the dishwasher will not cause you any difficulties.

Drain installation

Despite the simplicity of the work, there are several conditions that must be met:

1. The lower knee should be as deep as possible, and its bend should be shorter. This type of water log can be seen in the toilet and sink. It is extremely important for a dishwasher, because if the miasma drain is empty, everything will go into the closed space of the machine.

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